# changing litter box a lot????



## BlackMiniRex (Sep 2, 2016)

how many times do you change the litter box?
i keep forgetting what day i change it, but i feel like i change it a lot.
when i change it i put down some care fresh bedding and fill half the litter box with hay, but by the end of the day its full of poop and the bedding is all drenched in pee.
is there a more absorbent bedding then carefresh? when it does get filled up i put another layer of carefresh so he's not sitting in poop and pee after about 3 days (it gets really heavy) i'll dump it in the compost. I have looked at the binkybunny.com wire litter box cover, but i'm a bit nervous to try that, since he is sorta prone to sore hocks.


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## BlackRabbits (Sep 3, 2016)

I have two small bunnies. I give them two litter boxes, but they seem to prefer one of them. I change their favourite box every two to three days, or whenever I see a lot of poop. I add fresh hay to it every day. The other box only needs changing once a week or less.

I put a thick layer of newspaper on the bottom to absorb the pee, followed by either wood stove pellets or Yesterday's News. Then on top I put a layer of hay. Sometimes Zelda rips the newspaper up, but it's no problem as they still use the box. 

I've never used Carefresh because I've heard it's expensive. So I don't know how it compares with stove pellets or YN for absorbency. 

I'm not sure about the litter box cover, I guess it would depend on how much time they spend in the box. My littlest one likes to sit in the box and meditate while munching on hay. The bigger one just does her thing and then sits beside the box to munch.


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## BlackMiniRex (Sep 3, 2016)

BlackRabbits said:


> I have two small bunnies. I give them two litter boxes, but they seem to prefer one of them. I change their favourite box every two to three days, or whenever I see a lot of poop. I add fresh hay to it every day. The other box only needs changing once a week or less.
> 
> I put a thick layer of newspaper on the bottom to absorb the pee, followed by either wood stove pellets or Yesterday's News. Then on top I put a layer of hay. Sometimes Zelda rips the newspaper up, but it's no problem as they still use the box.
> 
> ...


i got carefresh cause i heard it absorbs a lot, but i'm running low to i might want to try woodstove pellets or yesterday's news, but has your bunnies ever tried eating it? they look a lot like his rabbit pellets (only these are grey) and he LOVES his rabbit pellets.
how much is 'a lot of poop' cause i see a small mound of poop at the end of the day and i don't want him sitting in poop and pee.


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## Blue eyes (Sep 3, 2016)

The wood stove pellets and the pelleted paper litter (like Yesterdays's News) do look like the food pellets, but rabbits absolutely know the difference. They smell it. Never heard a bun eat it. 

I'm not a big fan of Carefresh because I just find it messy. It seems to get everywhere. Plus it doesn't absorb odor as well as the pellets. 

Yesterday's News (only get unscented) works well but costs considerably more than wood stove pellets and, imho, isn't quite as good as the wood pellets. YN would be my second choice. 

Wood pellets topped with hay works well. With two rabbits, I changed the litterbox twice per week. Now that I'm down to one rabbit, I only need to change it once per week. 

Don't put too many wood pellets in the litter box. They really expand when wet. I show how much I fill it and how it expands on *this page *of my website. The photos are probably better at explaining how this system works. If hay isn't added daily, then it will start smell sooner.


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## BlackMiniRex (Sep 3, 2016)

ok, next time i'm shopping for litter (which will be very soon) i'll see if i can find wood stove pellets  (or YN if they don't have any Wood stove pellets)


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## BlackRabbits (Sep 3, 2016)

BlackMiniRex said:


> ok, next time i'm shopping for litter (which will be very soon) i'll see if i can find wood stove pellets  (or YN if they don't have any Wood stove pellets)



You can get wood stove pellets at places like Home Depot or Lowes. Feed stores would probably have them as well, I believe they're used as horse bedding. Up here in Toronto they only sell them seasonally (Sept-Oct -> March). I guess it's because in the city fewer people use pellet stoves because they're mainly used for heating. You may have better luck getting the pellets year round where you are. When they're available I stock up. I've always found 4 50 lb bags do my two buns for the whole year. This year I've added a Flemish to the mix, so I'll get a fifth bag. 

I've never seen evidence that they get eaten. I never see wood pellets outside of the litter box, and while the rabbits are in the box they're focused on eating hay. They break down into sawdust when moist, and I'm sure the rabbits wouldn't find damp sawdust saturated with pee to be very appetizing. Same goes for the YN, always at the bottom of the box and nowhere else.


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## Aki (Sep 4, 2016)

I change it every 3 days. I put a very thin layer of wooden pellets (looks more like very big sand grains actually) on the bottom and that's it because my rabbits are super picky and will leave a lot of hay inside the box (the hay rack is in front of the litter box and I add about a handful in the box for Aki since she has more trouble taking the hay from the rack). If you put a big layer, things will p. ile up super quickly and my dwarf lop who as this habit of peeing while leaning against the corner of the box will pee half outside of the box. When I change it, I obviously empty it completely. 
So, 3 days sound normal to me...


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## BlackMiniRex (Sep 4, 2016)

Aki said:


> I change it every 3 days. I put a very thin layer of wooden pellets (looks more like very big sand grains actually) on the bottom and that's it because my rabbits are *super picky* and will leave a lot of hay inside the box (the hay rack is in front of the litter box and I add about a handful in the box for Aki since she has more trouble taking the hay from the rack). If you put a big layer, things will p. ile up super quickly and my dwarf lop who as this habit of peeing while leaning against the corner of the box will pee half outside of the box. When I change it, I obviously empty it completely.
> So, 3 days sound normal to me...



andy is extremely picky about hay, he'll dig through his pile of hay (making a hay tunnel for himself) to find the _perfect_ piece of hay,


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## katiecrna (Sep 5, 2016)

Can someone give me the name of the brand of wood stove pellets their use? I'm scared it's going to be toxic to the rabbit so I don't know which brand to use.


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## JBun (Sep 5, 2016)

katiecrna said:


> Can someone give me the name of the brand of wood stove pellets their use? I'm scared it's going to be toxic to the rabbit so I don't know which brand to use.



There are tons of different brands of wood pellets and what is available varies in each area. I just get a plain pine pellet making sure there are no additives listed on the bags, particularly an added accelerant. 

If you are still concerned about getting the wrong wood stove pellets, you can get some equine bedding pellets at a feed store instead, or Feline Pine pellets at a pet store(which will be a bit more expensive than the wood stove pellets or equine bedding pellets).


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## Azerane (Sep 6, 2016)

I've had rabbits eat the wood stove pellets  However in both instances it was when they were first changed to the new litter. I think Bandit tried two, and Apollo tried 3 or 4. Nothing since then though. I don't think they taste too good, but they're perfectly safe to be eaten if bunny happens to nibble one or two at first when you introduce it. Large quantities however and I wouldn't continue using it. But don't be surprised if one or two gets eaten just to see what this new thing is.


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## dpbunnies (Sep 6, 2016)

I've not read all the replies - but I used to have to change my girls litter tray twice a day - fully empty it and replace everything.

The amount of hay and litter that would be wasted was incredible. 

I've since got one of these:







I don't waste anywhere near as much and can spot clean the tray easily once a day. 

Could you make something similar, or use a garden wire planter to hold the hay just above the tray?


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## BlackMiniRex (Sep 6, 2016)

i can't find a good hay rack, so i just put a pile of hay in the litter tray, he spreads the hay everywhere, so it's super hard to spot clean,
Andy will try to avoid going in the litter box if theirs hay he can reach out side of the litter box, and he prefers to sit on top of his hay and eat it (if it's in a hay rack with a gap at the top [where you put the hay in])


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## katiecrna (Sep 12, 2016)

http://m.lowes.com/pd/40-lb-Wood-Pellets/3506840

Would these be safe to use?


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## BlackRabbits (Sep 12, 2016)

JBun said:


> There are tons of different brands of wood pellets and what is available varies in each area. I just get a plain pine pellet making sure there are no additives listed on the bags, particularly an added accelerant.
> 
> If you are still concerned about getting the wrong wood stove pellets, you can get some equine bedding pellets at a feed store instead, or Feline Pine pellets at a pet store(which will be a bit more expensive than the wood stove pellets or equine bedding pellets).



Today I was checking the websites of the stores where I buy my wood stove pellets to see if they have them in yet (since they don't sell them year round here). I just finished my last bag from last season. I found two brands where they actually print "safe for pet bedding" on the label. They usually list the ingredients on the bag and will mention if they are "natural" or "organic" or "no fillers or additives". The good pellets contain nothing but wood, they are made of pressed wood fibers. You can find softwood or hardwood pellets. I use the hardwood because they don't contain the aromatic oils that pine etc. do.


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## BlackRabbits (Sep 12, 2016)

dpbunnies said:


> I've not read all the replies - but I used to have to change my girls litter tray twice a day - fully empty it and replace everything.
> 
> The amount of hay and litter that would be wasted was incredible.
> 
> ...



If you can find a dollar store that has cc/metal storage cubes, they can be bent into shape or tied together with zip ties to make a hay rack. Dollar store cubes are smaller, made with thinner wire and have larger spaces between the wires than the ones people use to build cages with. If you're not familiar with CC cubes, here's an example: https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.3-pack-storage-cube.1000141561.html?autoSuggest=pip

Here's a comparison photo of the "real" cube vs. the dollar store version:


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## BlackRabbits (Sep 12, 2016)

katiecrna said:


> http://m.lowes.com/pd/40-lb-Wood-Pellets/3506840
> 
> Would these be safe to use?



I can't tell because the site doesn't give any info on the ingredients. Generally you want to look for words like "natural" or "no additives" or "contains wood only" etc. Some bags actually say "safe for pet bedding". I saw several brands on Walmart's US website, but because I'm in Canada I can't see details. Here's the brand I use, it's a Canadian brand but if you scroll down you'll see the description, it should help you as a guide: 

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/softwood-pellets-0642778p.html#srp


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## BlackMiniRex (Sep 13, 2016)

i just got some, I don't think andy likes them that much, he peed right next to his litter box 2x in one day, their not as cozy as his nice soft carfresh (more like little pebbles XD)
should i mix them in with carfresh and gradually introduce them? they also take a bit to actually absorb the pee (i did the water test) (they do break though )
if i hand them directly to andy he does nibble them


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## JBun (Sep 13, 2016)

BlackMiniRex said:


> i just got some, I don't think andy likes them that much, he peed right next to his litter box 2x in one day, their not as cozy as his nice soft carfresh (more like little pebbles XD)
> should i mix them in with carfresh and gradually introduce them? they also take a bit to actually absorb the pee (i did the water test) (they do break though )
> if i hand them directly to andy he does nibble them



Try a layer of hay over it. It will help keep it soft on his feet and encourage him to be in there to eat the hay.

It can take a bit for the urine to be absorbed, but if you have a thick enough layer of pellets(like 1-1.5 inches) then it shouldn't be a problem as the urine will drain down to the bottom to be gradually absorbed. 

Some pellets aren't as good at absorbing as others, so you may find you have to switch brands if these don't absorb the urine very well.


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## Blue eyes (Sep 13, 2016)

BlackMiniRex said:


> i just got some, I don't think andy likes them that much, he peed right next to his litter box 2x in one day, their not as cozy as his nice soft carfresh (more like little pebbles XD)
> should i mix them in with carfresh and gradually introduce them? they also take a bit to actually absorb the pee (i did the water test) (they do break though )
> if i hand them directly to andy he does nibble them



^ Yup! Definitely try adding hay. Cover the pellets with hay. Then daily (or twice per day) add more hay.


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## BlackMiniRex (Sep 14, 2016)

ok thanks


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## katiecrna (Sep 15, 2016)

I change mine every 3 days not because it smells but because it's gross and full of poop. Maybe I need a bigger litter box lol


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## BlackMiniRex (Sep 16, 2016)

i tried to spot clean his litterbox today but i ended up dumping all the litter! (so much poop!!!)


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## katiecrna (Sep 16, 2016)

How many days did u make it?


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## dpbunnies (Sep 16, 2016)

BlackMiniRex said:


> i tried to spot clean his litterbox today but i ended up dumping all the litter! (so much poop!!!)


It's the urine that'll smell most so removing just the wet patches should work.


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## JBun (Sep 16, 2016)

katiecrna said:


> I change mine every 3 days not because it smells but because it's gross and full of poop. Maybe I need a bigger litter box lol





BlackMiniRex said:


> i tried to spot clean his litterbox today but i ended up dumping all the litter! (so much poop!!!)


 
This is the one nice thing about having a screen over the litter. It keeps the poop from mixing with it so I can just sweep out the poop and wet hay, leaving the litter good til it's ready to be dumped out too. 

The hard part is making the screens as I don't like using hard wire screens, and the soft screens take a bit of diy skills. But the screens work really well if you want to spot clean the litter box each day instead of covering up the poop and wet hay with more hay. I prefer to keep mine cleaned out. So each day I sweep up the peed on hay and poop(that the soft screen keeps separate from the wood pellets), and for one litter box I can go a week before having to dump out the litter, the other I spot clean wet spots every other day.


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## BlackMiniRex (Sep 17, 2016)

yeah, i don't think i'll get a screen because rexs are prone to sore hocks and Andy's hocks are always balding i don't want to risk him getting an open sore or something, but yeah, i would love to get one if Andy didn't get sore hocks.


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## JBun (Sep 17, 2016)

Hard metal screens would be a problem but I use soft ones made from soft plastic pet screen, so not abrasive to their feet. My rabbits are prone to developing sore hocks too, which is why I made the soft screens to use, and it doesn't bother their feet at all. But they are homemade, so does require some cutting and assembly. If you are interested in trying it, I can tell you how I made them. This is what they look like.


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## katiecrna (Sep 17, 2016)

@jbun So u just empty the screen which had poop and hay on it everyday? Does the screen smell like urine?


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## BlackMiniRex (Sep 17, 2016)

JBun said:


> Hard metal screens would be a problem but I use soft ones made from soft plastic pet screen, so not abrasive to their feet. My rabbits are prone to developing sore hocks too, which is why I made the soft screens to use, and it doesn't bother their feet at all. But they are homemade, so does require some cutting and assembly. If you are interested in trying it, I can tell you how I made them. This is what they look like.



oh yes! i would love to know how to make that!


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## JBun (Sep 18, 2016)

katiecrna said:


> @jbun So u just empty the screen which had poop and hay on it everyday? Does the screen smell like urine?



I just sweep up the poop and the wet hay and dump it in the compost bin. It doesn't smell as the urine just passes through the screen to the litter beneath. It can start to get dirty over a few weeks, then I just soak it in vinegar and water, then use a scrubber brush with a bit of dish soap, then rinse.



BlackMiniRex said:


> oh yes! i would love to know how to make that!



Ok, I'll try to get instructions put together in the next few days, with pictures hopefully. You do have to buy a whole roll of pet screen(about $13) unless you can find somewhere that sells by the foot. Then the plastic edging is a couple of dollars. If you have several screens to make, it comes out to be pretty affordable, but for just one it is kind of expensive, but well worth it in my opinion. It's one of the best things I've made for my buns and makes litter box cleaning so much easier.


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## BlackMiniRex (Sep 22, 2016)

Here is my litter box set up I now kinda need a hay rack because he pees on his hay....no hay rack fits!!!!
Sorry for the really bad pic quality!


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## SidneyLion (Sep 23, 2016)

Personally, I use small animal paper pellet litter purchased from Petco for my rabbit. I only have to change it once a month. It's super absorbent and leaves absolutely no odor. It's also non dusty and my bunny seems to like it. I highly recommend it. When I first got my rabbit I tried every type of litter, most were too messy, dusty, or had me run into the same problem you have.
I put about a 2-3 inch layer in a small container that she uses as a litter box. Then once a month I dump it out, rinse her litterbox and put more in. One bag tends to last at least 6 months. Definitely try it!


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## katiecrna (Sep 25, 2016)

@blackminirex did you get new litter and is it working better for you?


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## middlemuse (Sep 25, 2016)

SidneyLion said:


> Personally, I use small animal paper pellet litter purchased from Petco for my rabbit. I only have to change it once a month. It's super absorbent and leaves absolutely no odor. It's also non dusty and my bunny seems to like it. I highly recommend it. When I first got my rabbit I tried every type of litter, most were too messy, dusty, or had me run into the same problem you have.
> I put about a 2-3 inch layer in a small container that she uses as a litter box. Then once a month I dump it out, rinse her litterbox and put more in. One bag tends to last at least 6 months. Definitely try it!



Once a MONTH? :what What magic is this?! I empty Aria's once a week and I always feel like I've left it too long.


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## BlackMiniRex (Sep 25, 2016)

katiecrna said:


> @blackminirex did you get new litter and is it working better for you?


sorta, all of the sudden he has now started peeing right next to it ever since i changed litters :/


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## Charmander (Sep 25, 2016)

Personally I have to change mine everyday, if I don't my bunny digs out all the **** and litter into her cage. Sometimes within 12h of changing I'll do it again. But I remember my other bunny it was once every couple days was good enough. And again personally I don't use bedding. When I did my bunny would move it all to the edges and kick it out of her cage, and it almost promoted not going in the literbox and using the bedding instead. What I use is PJ shirts, since I only ever wear the bottoms and a tank top I had a bag full of PJ shirts I was never going to use. I cut them in half take off the buttons and she loves it, doesn't pee on it either plus its really soft so she sometimes nuzzles into it or just plays with it haha. Every bunny is different, try a few suggestions to figure out what is best for you and your buns.


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## JBun (Sep 28, 2016)

BlackMiniRex said:


> sorta, all of the sudden he has now started peeing right next to it ever since i changed litters :/



Probably he doesn't like the feel of the rougher litter on his feet. I had the same problem with one of my rabbits. That's why I started putting a layer of hay over the litter, and later made the screen to put over the litter. Another added benefit of the screen is that it helps keep the litter in place and prevents it from shifting all over the litter box when they hop into it.

So here is how I made the screen. This is a bit complex and lengthy, so hopefully I remember all the steps so it isn't too confusing.

You will need a roll of the pet screen. I got mine at Walmart, Amazon also has it for the same price. It's not normal fiberglass window screen, but is a thicker plastic screening made to resist pet damage. 
https://www.walmart.com/ip/New-York-Wire-Pet-D-Fence-Pet-Screen-Polyester-36-x-48-4pc/17133583

This is the white plastic edging, which I got at Lowe's home improvement. I used the smallest width, which is what you want. There are a few different colors: white, beige, and possibly gray and black if you can find them in the smaller size.
http://www.lowes.com/pd/Sequentia-0...ainscot-Panel-Cap-Wall-Panel-Moulding/4768311

You will need heavy duty scissors to cut the plastic edging, or I used tin snips. If you use the zip ties to attach the edging, you will need something to punch holes in the edging to run the zip ties through. I used a leather punch.

First is taking measurements for the screen size you will need. Make sure to take measurements with the litter in the litter box as this can sometimes affect the size of the screen that you will need. I try and get the screen as close to the edges of the litter box as possible. Too small and it will shift around, too big and it won't fit right. 

Once you have the measurements, unroll the screening and mark your measurements out, I used a silver permanent marker so it would show up on the black screening. Cut out your piece of screen. Lay it in the litter box on top of the litter to make sure you got the measurements right.

Next double check your screen measurements by remeasuring it, then use those measurements for your edging pieces. Measure and mark the edging, then make a 90 degree cut. Put each piece along the edge of the screen to make sure your measurements were correct, then with all edges in place, lay the screen into the litter box to make sure the fit is right. You want to make sure it fits before you attach the edges permanently.

Next is assembly. There are two ways I've used. First is the easiest by using zip ties to attach the edging to the screen. You want the smallest 4 inch ties so they fit easily in the holes in the screen. The down fall of this method is that hay and urine collects in the edging channel and you need to use a jet of water to get it out. This lead me to the second method of using 100% silicone caulk to attach the edging to the screen. I got mine at walmart, and make sure you don't get the mildew resistant kind. You want the 100% silicone caulk. I like this method the best as it seals up that channel in the edging so no urine or debris can collect in it, but the downfall is it is difficult to do and can be messy. 

Here is a picture of heavy duty scissors, tin snips, leather punch, and cut edging pieces for both a caulked screen(with the lower lip of the edging cut off so urine doesn't collect on it) and a zip tied screen. You can see how the two zip tied edging pieces assemble at the corner so that the holes on each piece line up to put a zip tie through.







First the zip tie method. I measured and marked where I wanted the holes, then punched holes with the leather punch. Punch the holes for the corner with the two pieces put together so that the holes will line up for putting the zip tie through. Next slide the screen into the channel in the plastic edging. Make sure the screen goes all the way into the back of the channel. Then pass the zip tie through the hole and the screen and secure the zip tie, with the attachment part of the zip tie on the bottom of the screen. Then cut the excess tail of the zip tie off. An alternative to punching holes if you don't have a tool to do it, is to trim the bottom lip of the edging off so that the bottom and top are even, then you wouldn't need to punch holes in it.






Finished zip tied screen.





With the caulk method, I first trimmed off the bottom lip of the edging so that both the bottom and top were even. Next lay out some newspaper as a work surface and set your screen piece and edging pieces on it. Have several sheets of paper towels handy for cleaning up excess caulk. If using a new tube of caulk, make sure to cut the end off at a 45 degree angle and make the cut as close to the tip as possible so that the opening is as small as possible. I used a thick piece of wire to pierce the seal on the inside of the caulk(pierce it several times).

Place the tip of the caulk into the edging gap. I pushed it in so that the edging spread apart some, to make sure all of the caulk went in there. Then slowly draw the caulk gun down the length of the piece as you squeeze the caulk in. 






Once there is caulk all along the gap of the edging piece, wipe off any excess with your finger, then slip the edging piece onto the correct side of the screen, very carefully so you don't mess up the caulk too much and make sure the screen sets all the way to the back of the edging channel. Then carefully slip zip ties through the screen an inch or so from the ends(and a zip tie in the middle if a large screen) to help secure the edging while it dries. I like to do the side edging first, then the top and bottom.






Carefully wipe away any caulk that may have squeezed out of the gap when the edging was attached to the screen. Do the same for the rest of the edges. When done carefully check over the screen for any caulk messes to wipe off. Be careful not to let the screen flex too much as the caulk is still wet. Then lay your screen on a clean piece of newspaper to dry in a well ventilated area. I left it for a week to make sure it was completely dried and cured. Once the caulk is completely dried you can cut the zip ties off and remove them from the screen.






Finished caulked screen.





If trying to decide which attachment method to use, the caulk method is the best one as it keeps the screen the cleanest with no gaps for debris and urine to build up in, and so is the easiest when having to wash the screen. But it is a bit tricky getting that caulk into the gap when assembling, without making a huge mess. So if you aren't used to doing caulk jobs. I would suggest not attempting it without a little practice, and being prepared for a bit of a mess with the caulk. I've done a fair bit of caulking jobs, and I found this can be a bit frustrating when that caulk tip keeps slipping out of the gap as you are caulking it. 

If you have enough edging, you could start with a screen that is zip tied, then if you think you would like the caulked screen you could give it a try. This way you would also have an extra screen for when you take the other one out for cleaning.

Good luck and if anything isn't clear just let me know and I'll try and clarify.


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## JBun (Sep 28, 2016)

BlackMiniRex said:


> Here is my litter box set up I now kinda need a hay rack because he pees on his hay....no hay rack fits!!!!
> Sorry for the really bad pic quality!



A bigger litter box might work better. Then you can make a pile of hay at one end, hopefully one he doesn't like to pee at. 

I've never found a good store bought hay rack and just ended up making my own. I know people who have used different types of wire racks as makeshift hay racks(magazine, under cabinet racks). I've seen the ikea plastic bag holder used as a hay rack, though it wouldn't be chew proof. When picking out what to use, just keep in mind that bar spacing is important. If the bars are too close together, the rabbit can't access the hay very well, so you want a good space in between bars.

Here's my homemade hay rack. For more ideas google 'hay racks rabbits pictures' and that should pull up a bunch of different ideas too.


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## BlackMiniRex (Oct 1, 2016)

My bunny has a good size litter box, it's just that he pees all around in his litter box and tramples all the hay to the bottom.
I'm not that handy with tools :/
But I'll keep looking on the internet


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## katiecrna (Oct 1, 2016)

My New DIY hay rack I want to share.







I bought these at the dollar store and there were 2 in a pack. They are very bendable. I kept the one side straight and curved out the other end. I clipped the straight part on the inside of the cage using pins. 






Sorry for the messy cage


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## mikenyny (Oct 21, 2016)

BlackMiniRex said:


> how many times do you change the litter box?
> i keep forgetting what day i change it, but i feel like i change it a lot.
> when i change it i put down some care fresh bedding and fill half the litter box with hay, but by the end of the day its full of poop and the bedding is all drenched in pee.
> is there a more absorbent bedding then carefresh? when it does get filled up i put another layer of carefresh so he's not sitting in poop and pee after about 3 days (it gets really heavy) i'll dump it in the compost. I have looked at the binkybunny.com wire litter box cover, but i'm a bit nervous to try that, since he is sorta prone to sore hocks.


Answer - in my case and for my experience (over 5 years) is every day. This is what I have been using for the last couple of years. One plastic orange coloured roller paint tray - per 2 rabbits - and layed inside that is a plastic meshed tray. 
Method: Place a length of around 2 feet (0.6m) of toilet paper - which will be folded to line on end of the mesh tray. Then place you hay inside this. What this does is the toilet paper soaks up the excess urine. A rabbit will sit in this for several minutes, several times a day - and my rabbits look forward to the time I replace the tray. I have 4 rabbits, so I have 4 sets of the 2 trays.


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## BlackMiniRex (Oct 21, 2016)

katiecrna said:


> My New DIY hay rack I want to share.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



You know how you placed the hay on top of the grid (thing) if I did that for Andy he would jump into that spot and pee/poop there (while eating the hay of course)


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## katiecrna (Oct 24, 2016)

BlackMiniRex said:


> You know how you placed the hay on top of the grid (thing) if I did that for Andy he would jump into that spot and pee/poop there (while eating the hay of course)





Yea my rabbit started jumping up there too. Such cute weirdos these rabbits are.


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## Blue eyes (Oct 24, 2016)

mikenyny said:


> Answer - in my case and for my experience (over 5 years) is every day. This is what I have been using for the last couple of years. One plastic orange coloured roller paint tray - per 2 rabbits - and layed inside that is a plastic meshed tray.
> Method: Place a length of around 2 feet (0.6m) of toilet paper - which will be folded to line on end of the mesh tray. Then place you hay inside this. What this does is the toilet paper soaks up the excess urine. A rabbit will sit in this for several minutes, several times a day - and my rabbits look forward to the time I replace the tray. I have 4 rabbits, so I have 4 sets of the 2 trays.



That sure sounds like a lot of work. Have you considered some of the other options on this thread? The wood pellets topped with hay (daily) in a large box (18" x 24") would easily service 2 rabbits with changes needed only once every 3-4 days.


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## mikenyny (Oct 25, 2016)

BlackRabbits said:


> I have two small bunnies. I give them two litter boxes, but they seem to prefer one of them. I change their favourite box every two to three days, or whenever I see a lot of poop. I add fresh hay to it every day. The other box only needs changing once a week or less.
> 
> I put a thick layer of newspaper on the bottom to absorb the pee, followed by either wood stove pellets or Yesterday's News. Then on top I put a layer of hay. Sometimes Zelda rips the newspaper up, but it's no problem as they still use the box.
> 
> ...





Blue eyes said:


> That sure sounds like a lot of work. Have you considered some of the other options on this thread? The wood pellets topped with hay (daily) in a large box (18" x 24") would easily service 2 rabbits with changes needed only once every 3-4 days.


Not a lot of work - 10 mins max per day.


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## mikenyny (Feb 25, 2017)

Blue eyes said:


> That sure sounds like a lot of work. Have you considered some of the other options on this thread? The wood pellets topped with hay (daily) in a large box (18" x 24") would easily service 2 rabbits with changes needed only once every 3-4 days.


Why do I change it every day? Answer: Because flies can lay eggs on the poop and within a couple of days the worms (or whatever you call them) can crawl onto the rabbit the next time it poops - and then you will have fly strike: no-brainer really.


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## Aki (Feb 26, 2017)

mikenyny said:


> Why do I change it every day? Answer: Because flies can lay eggs on the poop and within a couple of days the worms (or whatever you call them) can crawl onto the rabbit the next time it poops - and then you will have fly strike: no-brainer really.



Well good for you if it doesn't bother you to do it everyday, but unless you live in a place infested by flies, it's really not necessary. Especially in winter when there are almost no flies around (or maybe you live in a very hot place? For my part, I haven't seen a fly for months). I would be more cautious if the rabbit lived outside, especially during the hottest months, but mine live inside the house. Like Blue eyes said, I've been changing the litterbox every three days for the past 10 years and I've never had a fly strike or a worm problem.
Anyway, my veranda is full of carnivorous plants, and the flies are more attracted to them than to bunnies - flies don't live long in my house XD.


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## mikenyny (Feb 26, 2017)

Aki said:


> Well good for you if it doesn't bother you to do it everyday, but unless you live in a place infested by flies, it's really not necessary. Especially in winter when there are almost no flies around (or maybe you live in a very hot place? For my part, I haven't seen a fly for months). I would be more cautious if the rabbit lived outside, especially during the hottest months, but mine live inside the house. Like Blue eyes said, I've been changing the litterbox every three days for the past 10 years and I've never had a fly strike or a worm problem.
> Anyway, my veranda is full of carnivorous plants, and the flies are more attracted to them than to bunnies - flies don't live long in my house XD.


Guess you have the last word on this one then?


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