# My cat brought me some rabbits



## ablyss (Aug 16, 2006)

My cat brought two baby rabbits onto our porch just now, and one of them has a nasty cut on it's back. The other is fine and is currently "resting" in a box. The wounded rabbit is in a separate container laying on a towel.

Here's a picture of the wound (the lower back of the rabbit)







We plan on taking them both to the SPCA tomorrow morning, but until then is there anything we should do for the wounded and non-wounded rabbits.

Thanks,

Chris


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## ablyss (Aug 16, 2006)

Both of them have their eyes open.

Injured Rabbit:






















The uninjured rabbit:






Should we keep them separate or put them together for comfort?


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## Spring (Aug 16, 2006)

I would keep them together if they seem to go along well, espeically as they seem to be from the same litter.

The cuts should heal good, they seem pretty good. I'd just leave maybe some warm water in a shallow bowl or lid for them and maybe some grass or hay if you have any? That should be good enough for the night. You could also fill a sock with rice and heat it in the microwave for 30sec. to keep both warm, but put it away from them at first so it's not too hot.

Keep us postedabout what happends to theselittle guys!


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## Pipp (Aug 16, 2006)

I hate posts like this.  Nobody ever wants to deal with wild baby bunnies. 

Here's the best information link:

http://www.wildliferescueleague.org/report/nova_rabbit.html

Highly unlikely the SPCA willdeal with the babies, other than maybe euthanise them.

If youcan find a wildlife rehabilitator in your area, they MIGHTtake them in, but they don't always. The baby with the would is in serioustrouble if the wound was caused by a cat.Even if you can't get the baby to a wildlife rehab immediately, at least phone them. It's unlikely a vet will do anything, either, but it may be worth a phone call in leiu of a rehaber. The bunny that doesn't appear to be injured may also have wounds you can't see.

Anyway, the above link is a great resource. I hope it works out. Please let us know. 

sas


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## ablyss (Aug 16, 2006)

Well, they were fine for the night. That link you posted seems to be down at the moment. I'm really not sure what to do at this point. I know I don't want to wild rabbits for pets, but I'd rather not have them euthanized. Thoughts?


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## Pipp (Aug 16, 2006)

Rescuing A Baby Cottontail

Northern Virginia residents share our region with many types of wildlife, and we may occasionally come across a cottontail or other wildlife that appears to need help. In the case of cottontails, most of these encounters involve "orphaned" cottontails: unsupervised babies in or just outside of their nest. You may infrequently come into contact with an injured or sick juvenile or adult rabbit. It can be difficult to determine when a cottontail, especially a baby, is in need of human assistance.

Finding a nest of baby cottontails.

Nests can be uncovered while mowing the lawn or while replacing mulch around trees and shrubs, and during general gardening. Cats and dogs frequently find the nests when their sharp eyes detect the movement of the tiny babies or they observe the mother visiting the nest.

When an unguarded nest is found, a common misperception is that the mother rabbit has abandoned the nest. This is rarely the case. Generally, the mother would only abandon her nest if: 1) she has been killed, or 2) she has been driven away by constant harassment of the nest by children, pets, or other disturbances. A mother rabbit visits her nest only twice each day, usually at dawn and dusk, to nurse the babies. At all other times, she is nearby, probably well-hidden under a bush or in tall grass. Do not expect to see her at the nest. If she were to stay with the nest, her visibility and scent would expose herself and the babies to predators.

_What to do._ Leave the nest alone; the mother will come back to feed the babies twice a day. Do not expect to see her. If she senses any danger, she may stay away from the nest for a prolonged period. Do not touch the babies, remove them from the nest, or keep visiting the nest to check on them. Repeated disturbances around the nest cause stress to the mother and babies and draw attention to the site. Keep cats inside and monitor dogs so that they do not discover or disturb the nest site.

_If the nest has been disturbed_ (mowed over or accidentally dug up) but the babies appear to be uninjured, carefully replace the nest in its original location, put the babies in it, and recover it with as much of the original fur, grass, leaves, mulch, etc., as possible. Use a tissue or rag, or gloves, when touching the babies. Once the babies are replaced and covered, leave the area and do not go back to check the nest. Keep cats inside and monitor dogs to ensure that they do not disturb the nest. Depending on the age of the babies, they will be in and around the nest area for up to four more weeks.

_If one or more of the babies has been killed or injured,_ remove the dead or injured baby(ies) but leave the uninjured ones in the nest. If the nest exhibits obvious signs of animal attack (one or more babies have wounds, blood in nest, nest torn apart), remove all of the babies from the nest. A cat or dog may have carried off one or more of the babies and will continue to revisit the nest until all of the babies are captured. Follow the instructions for preparing a substitute nest. Contact a wildlife rehabilitator as soon as possible to arrange for transfer of the babies. (See Rescuing an Injured Cottontail below).

Abandoned nest. A mother cottontail rarely abandons her nest. Baby cottontails are so readily assumed to be orphaned that they are frequently referred to as being "kidnapped" by well-meaning humans. Do not assume that a nest has been abandoned simply because the mother has not been seen. The mother will stay well hidden until all danger and disturbances have passed.

_What to do._ If you suspect an abandoned nest, you can test for the mother's return by placing two light sticks across the covered nest in a cross pattern. Leave the nest overnight and check in the morning. If the mother has returned to feed the babies, the sticks will be moved aside. Discontinue testing the nest and do not disturb the area again. If the sticks have not been disturbed, it may indicate that the mother has been killed or has abandoned the nest. Leave the bunnies in the nest and call a wildlife rehabilitator for advice. The rehabilitator will likely ask you a number of questions and may instruct you to look at the babies in the nest to determine their status and will give you further instructions for rescuing them if necessary.

Babies already removed from the nest. If you come upon cottontail babies that have already been removed from the nest (perhaps by a well-intentioned neighbor or child), locate the nest and replace the babies as soon as possible. Do not visit the nest site again. If the babies have been out of the nest for more than 12 hours, call a wildlife rehabilitator for advice. It may be possible to renest the babies, or they may have to be transferred to a rehabilitator.

Babies found wandering outside the nest. Young cottontails begin to explore outside the nest as soon as their eyes open (at 10 days of age). This is a period when they are very vulnerable to predator attacks and human interference since they are too young to recognize predators and not fast enough to escape them.

_What to do._If the cottontail's eyes are open, leave it alone. It is exploring outside the nest and learning to forage for food. The nest is nearby and the baby will be able to find it. Do not touch the rabbit and keep dogs, cats, and children away; be careful when mowing or digging around the area.

If the cottontail's eyes are sealed shut and it is found outside its nest, it needs to be rescued. It may have been taken from the nest by a predator and dropped, or its mother may have been killed and it is searching for food. Search the area for any more bunnies. Prepare a substitute nest as directed below and contact a rehabilitator.

Baby captured by dog or cat. If your dog or cat captures a baby cottontail and you don't know the location of the nest, follow the instructions for preparing a substitute nest and contact a wildlife rehabilitator as soon as possible. Contact with cats is frequently fatal to young animals, even when no injury is apparent. Contact with dogs is usually less serious and a baby bunny could be returned to the nest if there has been no injury. Keep cats inside and monitor dogs when they go outside for at least the next four weeks; otherwise, your pet will return to the nest site until all of the babies have been captured. (see Rescuing an Injured Cottontail below).

Rescuing an Injured Cottontail

Babies.Most injuries of infant cottontails are caused by cat and dog attacks and lawn equipment. Not all injuries may be evident; a trained wildlife rehabilitator can determine whether there has been an injury and whether the bunny needs to be treated or can be returned to the nest.

_What to do._ Profuse bleeding may be treated by applying pressure to the wound with a tissue or cloth (see Rescue Safety below). Otherwise, do not attempt to administer first aid unless directed to do so by a veterinarian, animal technician, or wildlife rehabilitator. Keep injured animals warm and in a quiet place until they can be transferred to a person qualified to care for them.

_Dog attacks._ Dogs are an introduced species; they are not natural predators of cottontails. If you know that a dog has attacked a nest of cottontails and all or some of the babies appear to be uninjured (some dogs merely carry a baby gently in their mouth and do not inflict any injury), it may be safe to return the babies to the nest as long as the dog in question can be monitored to ensure he or she does not disturb the nest again (depending on the age of the babies, monitoring may be necessary for up to four weeks). Contact a rehabilitator for advice and instructions.

_Cat attacks._ Domestic cats are an introduced species; they are not natural predators of cottontails. If you know that a cat has attacked the nest, remove all babies from the nest. Cat attacks can be fatal if treatment is not received within the first hours (even if there is no outward sign of injury), so contact a wildlife rehabilitator as soon as possible.

_Attacks by other animals._ If you witness an attack on cottontails by a natural predator such as a hawk, owl, or fox, do not interfere. While such an attack can be violent, it is important that we allow the natural predator-prey relationship continue; this is especially important in an area where habitat for both is limited. Cottontails are an important link in the food chain for other wildlife in Northern Virginia and natural predators help to control cottontail overpopulation.

Juveniles and adults. A juvenile cottontail is at least four weeks of age (about the size of a tennis ball) and no longer requires the nurturing of its mother or the protection of the nest. Most injuries of older cottontails are caused by predator attacks. A cottontail may also survive being hit by a car. You may infrequently encounter a cottontail that exhibits signs of disease contracted in the wild from other cottontails, from fleas or ticks, or as a result of predator attacks. Symptoms of injury and disease include loss of balance; limping or dragging a limb; running in circles; blood or other discharge from the nose, mouth, or ears; fur falling out; twisting head and neck backwards or at a tilt; open sores.
Many older cottontails cannot be captured unless they are so ill or injured that they are unable to run away. Do not chase or try to catch a cottontail that is running away even though it appears to need assistance. An older cottontail that allows itself to be captured can be assumed to be critically injured or in advanced stages of illness.

_Capture and containment:_ Keep the number of people involved, voices, and other distractions to an absolute minimum. Place a large towel over the animal. Wait for a few moments, then tuck the towel around the animal and gently lift it into a waiting box or container. Cover the container securely and contact a wildlife rehabilitator or emergency veterinary clinic for assistance. See instructions below for providing temporary food and housing.

_Always use extreme caution in approaching and handling older cottontails; although they are not normally aggressive or dangerous, older cottontails will panic and struggle when being handled. Never use your bare hands. In some cases involving adult cottontails, it may be more appropriate to call your local animal control officer or a wildlife rehabilitator to rescue the animal rather than putting yourself at risk of injury or transmittal of disease. Older cottontails can become very stressed when confined. Do not transport a cottontail unless it is securely contained. An animal that may initially appear to be calm or even comatose may suddenly become active. (see Rescue Safety below)_

Treatment for injuries. Do not attempt to treat any injuries. The cottontail could escape while being treated and you or it could be injured. Until a trained person can assist the animal, you can help it by providing some supplemental heat; wild animals can easily slip into shock when injured. Place half of the cottontailï¿½s container on an insulated heating pad set on low (to insulate the pad, wrap it in a towel) or apply an overhead light. Check the container (do not touch the animal itself) every few minutes to avoid overheating.

Providing Temporary Food and Housing for Cottontails

Babies. If the babies cannot be returned to the nest, you can take a few simple steps that will help them survive until they can be transferred to a wildlife rehabilitator.
Do not hold, pet, or talk to baby cottontails; while such contact may be soothing to human or dog and cat babies, it only creates more stress for wild rabbits and compromises their chances for survival.
Discard the nesting material. Since the babies are not going to be returned to the nest, the nest is not necessary and probably contains fleas and parasites.
Prepare a substitute nest. Use a box, bucket, or other container with a lid that can be discarded after use. Punch a few holes in the container for air. Create a cup-like nest using rags or towels that can later be discarded. Paper towels or tissues can be used.
Place the babies in the substitute nest and affix the lid securely. Even very small bunnies can escape from an open box. Place the container in a warm, quiet place, away from household sounds, odors, children, and pets. Most babies will benefit from a small amount of supplemental heat; set the container on top of an insulated heating pad set on the lowest setting. Wrap the heating pad in a towel so that the heat penetrates slowly. Check the bottom of the container every few minutes to make sure it is not too warm. Alternately, you can set the container under a low-wattage lamp. Again, check the container every few minutes to avoid overheating.

_Feeding._ Do not feed babies whose eyes are sealed shut; infants require a carefully developed formula delivered at the proper strength and amount, and feeding them anything else could compromise their survival. An older baby whose eyes are open may be offered ï¿½cleanï¿½ grass and clover (pulled from an area void of pesticides and herbicides), a bit of fresh apple, dry oatmeal, and a shallow dish of water. Do not hand-feed or force-feed a baby cottontail.

Juveniles and adults. Juvenile and adult cottontails can become very stressed in captivity. Their container should be covered at all times. Being confined in a limited space with an open top or sides may cause the cottontail to panic and literally traumatize itself to death. If the container does not have a fitted lid, affix a towel, sheet, or some newspaper over the top of the container. If using a cage or other see-through housing, cover it completely using a sheet, towels, or newspapers.
Do not hold, pet, or talk to the cottontail. When confined, older cottontails may appear to be calm and tame; in reality they are scared to death and attempting to hold or pet one may result in its escape and may injure you and/or it. Cottontails have also been known to suffer heart attacks due to the trauma of confinement and handling. A juvenile or adult cottontail needs to be transferred to a qualified wildlife rehabilitator as soon as possible.
An injured rabbit may benefit from supplemental heat to avoid going into shock. Place half of its container on top of an insulated heating pad or apply a low wattage light. Check the container frequently to make sure it is not too warm.
Older cottontails are invariably infested with ticks and fleas and should be confined in an area remote from human living areas.

_Feeding._ Juvenile and adult cottontails may be offered clean grass and clover, apple slices, dry oatmeal, rabbit pellets, and a shallow dish of water. Do not attempt to hand-feed or force-feed a cottontail.

Encounters with Tame or Friendly Cottontails

Sometimes the lack of timidity in very young cottontails is mistaken for friendliness; if a baby cottontail allows you to approach and/or handle it, it is a sign that the animal is too young to have developed its natural fear and is still being nursed by its mother at the nest site. Do not touch or disturb baby cottontails, even if they appear calm and friendly; they are exploring outside the nest and learning to forage for food. Although they appear very young (they are), their nest is nearby and they will find their way back to it.

Once cottontails reach about four weeks of age (about the size of a tennis ball), they exhibit a natural fear of people and other animals and should always run away if approached. Alternately, a young cottontail may freeze in fear. Do not disturb young rabbits or try to catch one that is running away. If a cottontail fails to run away when approached it is either too young to know any better, is freezing to avoid detection, is injured or ill (see possible symptoms above), or it is a pet rabbit that has been abandoned outside.

Abandoned pet rabbits. In Northern Virginia, cottontails are medium to dark brown or grayish-brown in color, with wide medium-length ears and a fluffy tail with a white underside; adults tend to be rather small, weighing two to four pounds and measuring 12 to 18 inches long. A rabbit of any other color and size is probably an abandoned domestic (pet) rabbit. Some domestic rabbits can look very similar to a cottontail; a key indicator, other than color, is behavior. If an adult rabbit allows you to approach and pet or handle it, it is probably a domestic rabbit. All too often, pet rabbits are abandoned outside by owners who no longer wish to care for them. Left outside, these rabbits are extremely vulnerable to starvation, disease, and predator attacks. Unlike cottontails, domestic rabbits need the care and nurturing of human companions. An abandoned pet should be rescued immediately and taken to your community animal shelter, humane society, or other animal welfare organization.

Cottontails as pets. It is unlawful to keep wild animals as pets. Cottontails, by their very nature, do not make suitable pets. They never lose their wildness and by being permanently confined are unable to fulfill their purpose in the ecosystem. Cottontails play a key role in our environment by consuming vegetation that might otherwise become overgrown and by providing a source of food for predator species. Cottontails kept as pets frequently die within their first few terror-filled weeks due to the stress of captivity. It is inappropriate, inhumane, and illegal to keep cottontails as pets. People interested in rabbits as pets should contact their local animal shelter, humane society, or other animal welfare organization for information on domestic rabbits available for adoption.

Rescue Safety

As a general rule, people should always minimize contact with wild animals for their own safety as well as for the welfare of the animal. In cases where a rescue is appropriate, be aware that wild animals may carry diseases transmittable to humans (zoonotic disease). The primary zoonotic disease associated with cottontails is tularemia, or rabbit fever. As a warm-blooded mammal, cottontails may carry rabies, although it is very rare. Cottontails may also be infested with fleas and ticks that can transmit disease (such as Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever).

_Protect yourself._ If you rescue a cottontail, use gloves or a towel if it is necessary to handle the animal. Confine the rabbit away from people and pets. Do not touch any exposed tissue or bleeding areas with bare hands; discard any items that may have blood on them. If a cottontail appears to be sick (see symptoms above), it may be more appropriate to contact an animal control officer or wildlife rehabilitator to take charge of the rescue. Children should never be allowed to handle or touch a cottontail, even if it seems healthy. People with compromised immunity should use extra caution.

If temporarily housing a cottontail, use containers and supplies that can be discarded after use. If they cannot be discarded, clean all containers, surfaces, and towels with a hot, soapy bleach solution.

Cottontails can bite (although they usually do not) and they have powerful back legs. If you are bitten or scratched, follow first aid procedures for animal bites and report the injury to your local animal control and/or public health officer.

Always wash your hands and change clothes after being in close contact with any wildlife.

Finding Assistance

Northern Virginia has an extensive network of wildlife rehabilitators. The Wildlife Rescue League (Falls Church, VA) maintains a list of local rehabilitators available to help the public with rescues of wildlife and operates a hotline (703-440-0800) to receive calls about wildlife in need of assistance.

Some local veterinarians and emergency veterinary clinics may treat wildlife and arrange transfer to a wildlife rehabilitator.

Individuals must have a permit from the Department of Game and Inland Fisheries in order to rehabilitate wildlife. Rehabilitation of birds requires a federal permit in addition to the state permit. Study, training, and mentoring for rehabilitators may be available from local and national wildlife rescue and rehabilitation organizations.

For more information:

Wildlife Rescue League
P.O. Box 704
Falls Church, VA 22040
Administrative/general inquiries: (703) 391-8625
Hotline: (703) 440-0800

Wildlife Center of Virginia
P.O. Box 1557
Waynesboro, VA 22980
(540) 942-9453

Virginia Department of Game and Inland Fisheries
P.O. Box 11104
Richmond, VA 23230
(804) 367-1000

National Wildlife Rehabilitators Association
14 North 7th Avenue
St. Cloud, MN 56303
(320) 259-4086

Other phone numbers to keep available:
Humane Society
Nature Center
Animal Shelter
Animal Control Officer
Veterinarian
Emergency Vet Clinic


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## Pipp (Aug 16, 2006)

It's illegal to keep them as pets, anyway. 

I'd say to contact the Wildlife Rehab people in your area and hopefully they'llprovide some basic treatment for their injuries and let them loose in an area far away fromthe cat. 

Terrible timing for the website to be down, they may have links to Rehab people inyour area as well. I still had the page up on my screen (thus the above text), but none of the links are working.

sas


EDIT: Try this page of links... 

http://www.tc.umn.edu/~devo0028/


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## Pipp (Aug 16, 2006)

Here's a way to find Rehab people in your area: 

http://www.tc.umn.edu/~devo0028/contact.htm

Let us know how it goes!



sas


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## nermal71 (Aug 16, 2006)

I'mnot sure where you are, but if you are in the Chicago area there is a place called The Little Red Schoolhouse in Willow Springs (I think) they will quite often take them. They took bunnies we had (also make sure you wear gloves we carry a bacteria that can kill wild bunnies as babies) and also baby skunks we ended up rescuing when the mama was trapped and taken away and the babies left behind. Yes I raised them till they were about 3 weeks old.


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## Pipp (Aug 17, 2006)

Any update on the wild bunnies? 

:brown-bunny:brown-bunny


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## ablyss (Aug 18, 2006)

Oh yeah, we took the bunnies to a lady we found in the phonebook that deals with orphaned or injured wild animals. She said the injured bunny had internal injuries and probably wouldn't make it, but that the other one would be fine. 

Thanks for the help, btw.

-Chris


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## Bo B Bunny (Aug 18, 2006)

I approached a veterinarian about Clover - our cottontail who has a real bad leg and he told me to call the DNR and they'd either send him to a rehab person and/or put him out of his misery. Needless to say - it might not be legal, but they'll have to pry my baby out of my hands! I syringe fed him and took care of him all that time so they can put him down? Uhhh NO!

We approached the vet because I thought maybe since he was a professor that he might want to use Clover to do a hip surgery (his hip seems dislocated) and since he's imprinted I would be happy to take him back or let some wild life center have him. He's a sweet little guy. Had his hip been better, we'd have turned him out in our yard. Infact, we were about to when we saw his hip was starting to tip in again. 

I don't believe in keeping wild animals, but sometimes it's either that or they will be put down - that's wrong too!


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## nermal71 (Aug 18, 2006)

Bo please try and contact the Little Red School House they are in Illinois I think willow springs defiitely in cook county. They may be willing to take the bunny. I have dealt with them in the past with orphaned animals.


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