# Flooring in the NIC cages.



## FallenRabbit (Jul 19, 2012)

Okay so my NIC cage is going to be 2 squares horizontally and 4 squares vertically. Each squares is 13 3/4 big all he way around. So I was thinking at the end (the right end of the cage) I will have a second level that will be 2 squares horizontally and 1 square vertically. I will have two squares above the second floor so the rabbit can't jump out. Is that good? The whole NIC cage will be 3 Neat Idea Cubes high. On the second level it will have 2 Neat Idea Cubes high, with the NIC cubes on the top of the cage covering the top of the second level. I was thinking I would the NIC cube, A paper bag covering the cubes, plywood covering up the paper bag, and then ?.

I am not sure what to put on top of the plywood so the bunny doesn't get the wood all dirty. I was at first thinking tile....

If the bunny I get is a baby and isn't litter trained won't the tile still have urine underneath them?

I am not at all worried about the poop, it is the pee. 

Ideas?[align=center][/align]


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## Korr_and_Sophie (Jul 19, 2012)

Many people use coroplast for the bottom of the cages. It is like corrugated cardboard, but is plastic. It is pretty easy to work with, you don't need any special tools other than a sharp knife. You can use it on the levels as well. 

If you want to use wood, you can use stick on tiles. They will stick to the wood and keep the pee from getting into the wood.


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## FallenRabbit (Jul 19, 2012)

Korr_and_Sophie wrote:


> Many people use coroplast for the bottom of the cages. It is like corrugated cardboard, but is plastic. It is pretty easy to work with, you don't need any special tools other than a sharp knife. You can use it on the levels as well.Â
> 
> If you want to use wood, you can use stick on tiles. They will stick to the wood and keep the pee from getting into the wood.


With coroplast would you put something on top of it?
And for a second level do you need like a wooden board under it to keep it up or will zip ties alone work?


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## Nelsons_Mom (Jul 19, 2012)

My cage is made from plywood. I used waterproof sealant (like to ensure fences don't rot, etc) and then put linoleum tiles over that about 48hrs later (though the drying time is usually 24hrs I wanted to be safe). 

If it's two squares wide, how long is it? The way your post was written it made it seem like it's two squares deep and two squares long, which is pretty small for permanent housing for a grown rabbit, even with all of the upper levels.


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## FallenRabbit (Jul 19, 2012)

Nelsons_Mom wrote:


> My cage is made from plywood. I used waterproof sealant (like to ensure fences don't rot, etc) and then put linoleum tiles over that about 48hrs later (though the drying time is usually 24hrs I wanted to be safe).
> 
> If it's two squares wide, how long is it? The way your post was written it made it seem like it's two squares deep and two squares long, which is pretty small for permanent housing for a grown rabbit, even with all of the upper levels.


The length that I was thinking was just one square. 13 3/4 inches. There would be two of those on the bottom.. enless I feel I should extend it from your comments. 
What type of tile did you get? Was it the rock or wooden type?


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## Nelsons_Mom (Jul 19, 2012)

Is there anyway that you could rearrange your furniture to make it bigger? one sq by two sq for a base is too small. My buns are 2 and 4lbs each (so pretty small by bunny standards) and they would FILL a one sq by one sq area EACH. Two sq by one sq wouldn't even give a full hop, let alone space to lay down. 

I know that it might be hard to envision that since it seems like you haven't seen very many grown rabbits in person, and heck, I know I have A LOT of trouble with spacial recognition myself! 

If I had to personally recommend a minimum size (but as always the bigger the better) I'd do 2sq deep by 3sq long and have a 2sq by 1sq second level (making the cage 3 sq high). That would be for a 2-5lb rabbit who got out 2-3hrs a day.


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## FallenRabbit (Jul 19, 2012)

Nelsons_Mom wrote:


> Is there anyway that you could rearrange your furniture to make it bigger? one sq by two sq for a base is too small. My buns are 2 and 4lbs each (so pretty small by bunny standards) and they would FILL a one sq by one sq area EACH. Two sq by one sq wouldn't even give a full hop, let alone space to lay down.
> 
> I know that it might be hard to envision that since it seems like you haven't seen very many grown rabbits in person, and heck, I know I have A LOT of trouble with spacial recognition myself!
> 
> If I had to personally recommend a minimum size (but as always the bigger the better) I'd do 2sq deep by 3sq long and have a 2sq by 1sq second level (making the cage 3 sq high). That would be for a 2-5lb rabbit who got out 2-3hrs a day.



Oh sorry, the one by 2 is for the second floor. The first floor is 4 by 2. Four would be the horizontal and the two would be the vertical. Sorry about that!
The cage would be 3 squares high.


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## Nelsons_Mom (Jul 19, 2012)

Oh thank goodness!

I knew I had seen you around and doing your research and I just had a moment of panic like "WHAT?!" hahaha. 

No, your bunny will be very happy with those dimensions!


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## FallenRabbit (Jul 19, 2012)

Nelsons_Mom wrote:


> Oh thank goodness!
> 
> I knew I had seen you around and doing your research and I just had a moment of panic like "WHAT?!" hahaha.
> 
> No, your bunny will be very happy with those dimensions!


I'm not that stupid.! I was like "Don't get mad!"
Do you have any photos of your tile on the plywood or anything like that?
I'm going to watch Breaking Bad with my mom, then ask the question about the bunny. I have my notes ready! hah


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## MyBabyHasPaws (Jul 19, 2012)

Good luck!!!!


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## Korr_and_Sophie (Jul 19, 2012)

*FallenRabbit wrote: *


> Korr_and_Sophie wrote:
> 
> 
> > Many people use coroplast for the bottom of the cages. It is like corrugated cardboard, but is plastic. It is pretty easy to work with, you don't need any special tools other than a sharp knife. You can use it on the levels as well.
> ...


You should use blankets or towels or something on top for comfort and traction.

The grids should keep it up. You can zip tie it in place though as it may slide off if the level is only 1 grid wide.


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## FallenRabbit (Jul 19, 2012)

Korr_and_Sophie wrote:


> *FallenRabbit wrote: *
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That is what I was thinking, just don't want lots of pee in the cloth making it stink.
Ya I was planning to zip tie the play wood and tile onto the grid.


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## Blue eyes (Jul 20, 2012)

If you get a bunny from a rescue, then it will likely be litter-trained. That can simplify things for you. 

I've used a piece of linoleum for the floor of one of my NIC cages. I just had to be sure that the edges of the linoleum were outside the cage perimeter so bunny couldn't get to the edge and chew it. (Linoleum comes on large rolls at lowes/home depot and they sell it by the foot)

If bunny is trained, you can also use a rug or carpet for the cage floor -- just put a shower curtain (or linoleum) underneath the carpet in case of "wet accidents." 

For on the plywood, some have used those self-stick vinyl floor squares. I used actualtravertine and porceleintile for my cage, but we are in the kitchen/bath remodel business so we had extra tile and the know-how to install it, grout it, seal it. And I have non-slip bath mats too.


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## FallenRabbit (Jul 20, 2012)

Blue eyes wrote:


> If you get a bunny from a rescue, then it will likely be litter-trained. That can simplify things for you.
> 
> I've used a piece of linoleum for the floor of one of my NIC cages. I just had to be sure that the edges of the linoleum were outside the cage perimeter so bunny couldn't get to the edge and chew it. (Linoleum comes on large rolls at lowes/home depot and they sell it by the foot)
> 
> ...


I think I can convince my mom more if I can do everything for myself except for going to the store for supplies and getting the okay, so not sure about adopting froma shelter. It all depends on if she even lets me have one. 

I am thinking just the self-stick ones. And for the plywood I want to make it so the edges stick up (I could do this by cutting up pieces of wood and nailing it to the bigger piece of the plywood) so no mess gets onto the floor. I will also have something under that, worried pee and water getting onto the carpet.


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## Nelsons_Mom (Jul 20, 2012)

It sounds to me that you're trying something similar to what I have as far as a bottom. 







I have a 6" side (though 4" would have sufficed) around the perimeter and no poo or hay flicks out onto the floor (I haven't done my morning sweep yet, so you can actually see the little poops in there. You should be able to make everything out of one sheet of plywood, which is good.

Make sure the linoleum you pick has some texture to it so it's not too slippery on little bunny feet. 

Because I used plywood for the "poo stay in the cage" boards, I had to cover it with linoleum as well so it wouldn't be exposed for them to chew on. However, if you use non-treated wood for the sides, it would be safe to chew. It was hard to put the tile on the sides since I had to use liquid nail since the self-stick was not strong enough for a vertical. I also used finishing nails to hold it in place while the liquid nail was drying.

Another thing if you go with a thicker plywood (I had mine cut by the people at lowes) is that it should be strong enough to put castor wheels on the bottom. It is not necessary if it is not a priority for you, but it's ten extra bucks that enables me to easy pull the cage out to vacuum behind it, etc. 

This is a great video that might be similar to what you are looking for: [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hbt7G4252i0[/ame]

Good luck with talking to your mom about it!


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## FallenRabbit (Jul 20, 2012)

Oh I saved that video on my favorites a while ago for help with my cage.
I think I can do the cage with a mistake but the one thing that is going to be harder is the "poo stay in cage" boards. For the tile on the side boards do you need to cut the tile so it fits it or what... I would get untreted wood so they can play with it but before I know there won't be any boards... hah


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## Samara (Jul 20, 2012)

We bought pre-stick linoleum at Home Depot and then because of traction issues bought pre-cut indoor/outdoor carpeting to go over the linoleum. It's working out well so far - do make sure you have a rug washer though...2 of my girls aren't fully box trained yet and it can get a wee stinky.


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## FallenRabbit (Jul 20, 2012)

I was thinking that on top of the tile I would put a crappy rug so if they pee and it starts to stink and stuff I can just throw it out. And is that okay?


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## Blue eyes (Jul 20, 2012)

*FallenRabbit wrote: *


> Blue eyes wrote:
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> 
> > If you get a bunny from a rescue, then it will likely be litter-trained. That can simplify things for you.
> ...



Bear in mind that if you get a young one from a breeder or petstore, then between 4-6 months of age, bunny may need to be fixed/neutered. Are your parents going to be willing to pay those costs and take bunny to a vet? The procedure can cost alot of money (way more than the cost of bunny). The cost of a bunnny from a shelter is cheaper than a store-bought because the spaying is already included. I'm referring to a rabbit rescue, though, and not a regular dog/cat shelter. 

You can check out this site and see their adoptable bunnies.

http://sandiegorabbits.org/


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## FallenRabbit (Jul 20, 2012)

Blue eyes wrote:


> *FallenRabbit wrote: *
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I'm thinking a male rabbit. But with a rabbit at that age isn't it just behavior and it will pass. BAD BEHAVIOR!
I know for females they may be cancer around the age of 3-4.


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## Blue eyes (Jul 20, 2012)

*FallenRabbit wrote: *


> > I'm thinking a male rabbit. But with a rabbit at that age isn't it just behavior and it will pass. BAD BEHAVIOR!
> > I know for females they may be cancer around the age of 3-4.



No. It won't pass. In fact, the spraying of urine can become an ingrained behavior if he is not neutered soon enough. 

"The urine sprayed from intact male rabbits has a strong and quite unpleasant odor. Typically, spraying occurs on vertical surfaces such as walls, furniture and doorways and if allowed to continue, the behavior becomes ingrained and neutering won't help stop it. By neutering early in life or as soon as the bunny begins to spray, this behavior can be either eliminated or at least significantly reduced." 

from http://www.petplace.com/small-mammals/why-should-you-spay-or-neuter-your-bunny/page1.aspx


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## Blue eyes (Jul 20, 2012)

:confused2:Sorry, this double posted, 


:big wink:BTW, I so appreciate all the background research you've been doing and your willingness to be on this forum seeking more information. :goodjob


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## MyBabyHasPaws (Jul 20, 2012)

Let me tell you from experience. Spraying is disgusting and your mom will freak out if a bun sprays all over your walls! I freak out! I have my wall lined with cardboard right now because i never know when he'll strike lol.

It drives me INSANE! I have an appt for my male to get neutered on 8/15 and i really am praying his spraying didnt become ingrained.. i'd be so upset.


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## FallenRabbit (Jul 20, 2012)

Blue eyes wrote:


> *FallenRabbit wrote: *
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Oh..


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## Nelsons_Mom (Jul 20, 2012)

Yes, i had to cut the linoleum to fit (and by that I mean my boyfriend because I'm scared of power tools). 

And I second what others have said about adopting a rescue bun that is alrwady altered. With your parents as hesitant as they are, a baby bunnies potty habits will only increase those beliefs and I would hate for you to have to give up your bunny because of that. An altered, adult, litter trained bun is the perfect match for first time bunny owners, especially in your position.


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## FallenRabbit (Jul 20, 2012)

Nelsons_Mom wrote:


> Yes, i had to cut the linoleum to fit (and by that I mean my boyfriend because I'm scared of power tools).
> 
> And I second what others have said about adopting a rescue bun that is alrwady altered. With your parents as hesitant as they are, a baby bunnies potty habits will only increase those beliefs and I would hate for you to have to give up your bunny because of that. An altered, adult, litter trained bun is the perfect match for first time bunny owners, especially in your position.


Will they say if it is littertrained?


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## Blue eyes (Jul 20, 2012)

*FallenRabbit wrote: *


> Nelsons_Mom wrote:
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> > Yes, i had to cut the linoleum to fit (and by that I mean my boyfriend because I'm scared of power tools).
> ...


Yes! In my experience with rescues, they will even tell you degrees of litter training (whether fully or mostly, etc).


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## Nelsons_Mom (Jul 20, 2012)

Yes, they will say if they are littertrained.

If you go on petfinder, the bottom of a potential rabbit for you should say "spayed/neutered and housebroken"


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## FallenRabbit (Jul 20, 2012)

Oh okay!
I was on petfinder and looking. The only thing i'm worried about with adopting from a rescue is that they will want to interview all my pets. I don't care if they interview my family just I don't want my dog running in the room and stuff. I posted an add on cregslist, just to see.


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## Blue eyes (Jul 20, 2012)

*FallenRabbit wrote: *


> Oh okay!
> I was on petfinder and looking. The only thing i'm worried about with adopting from a rescue is that they will want to interview all my pets. I don't care if they interview my family just I don't want my dog running in the room and stuff. I posted an add on cregslist, just to see.



Why would you be concerned about your dog? They adopt out to families with dogs. I have and have had dogs with my rabbits.

Oh, and did you go to the sandiegorabbits site?


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## FallenRabbit (Jul 20, 2012)

Blue eyes wrote:


> *FallenRabbit wrote: *
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Because my dog really likes smaller animals, but they dont like her too much. She is rough with them...

Yes i did.


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## FallenRabbit (Jul 20, 2012)

I really like this rabbit:
http://www.petfinder.com/petdetail/22762347

I called the Society but they didn't anwser so I left them my information.


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## Blue eyes (Jul 20, 2012)

*FallenRabbit wrote: *


> I really like this rabbit:
> http://www.petfinder.com/petdetail/22762347
> 
> I called the Society but they didn't anwser so I left them my information.



That is too funny. When I took a quick peek at their site, I clicked on one rabbit to see what info they provide. I happened to click on that one exact rabbit (Rascal) thinking he was so cute!

He sounds really sweet. 

Be sure to let the rescue know you have a dog. Sometimes certain rabbits just get too stressed around a dog, but the rescue usually knows which ones are like that.


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## Blue eyes (Jul 20, 2012)

*FallenRabbit wrote: *


> Because my dog really likes smaller animals, but they dont like her too much. She is rough with them...


Hopefully you can train her to be good. Our labradoodle would be all over our bunnies if I didn't teach him how to behave with the bunnies. Basically I had to teach him that the rabbits are part of the "pack." It was a process, but started the day the rabbits came home. I can explain in more detail when you're ready.


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## FallenRabbit (Jul 20, 2012)

Blue eyes wrote:


> *FallenRabbit wrote: *
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Ya on some of the other ones it will have a photo saying NO DOGS! But this one didnt have it so I guess the bunny is fine.


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## FallenRabbit (Jul 20, 2012)

Blue eyes wrote:


> *FallenRabbit wrote: *
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I have a parakeet (Pete) and my dog (Sophie) was not liking him at the beginning.. She was jealous of him. Now she likes him, she will go to the cage he is in and put her nose up to the bars. It is cool.


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## FallenRabbit (Jul 20, 2012)

It is a good time just one of my family members is here... asleep. I dont know if I should ask now or wait till he leaves...


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## FallenRabbit (Jul 21, 2012)

Probably not happening today, my family member is STILL here! 
My mom is going somewhere with her friend around 6:30 in the morning ( a sports contest ) so I'm thinking of getting up at 6 A.M. to talk to her about it.

BTW I'm sorry about all the posts, trying to keep ya'll updated.. :lookaround


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