# BREED LIBRARY PROJECT: We need help of experienced breeders who "know their standards"



## TinysMom (Jun 8, 2010)

I tried going off the forum for help - but I think the best way to get this done is to ask our breeders if they will help out with this very large project.

We want to start a breed library so that people can learn more about the various breeds. But we need your help to create a library where the information is sort of "standardized". For example - we'd like pictures of what show-quality rabbits would look like - we'd like to know recommended weights, etc. etc.

I have a sample I'm about to share that GoinBackToCali did for us a while ago on Californians. I think its great.

IF you are willing to help - please reply in this thread with the breed(s) you feel comfortable doing. If you see your breed already covered - you can always pm the person doing it to see if they would like any help or if you can share any pictures. Or you can go through your information and have it be prepared to add into that breed thread once it is created.

*I will edit this list at least a couple of times per day so we know what breeds are covered and by whom:

Lionheads - I will do this unless someone else wants to
Mini-Rex - Blue Sky Acres Rabbitry & La~La~Land 

Nethies - Shaded Night & Polly (I will post what Polly did and you two can decide if it needs tweaking), Silver Star

Himilayans - Erins Rabbits & Starlight can help

Dutch - Starlight Rabbitry

Jersey Wooly - Starlight Rabbitry & Oak Ridge Rabbitry can help

Holland Lop - Oak Ridge Rabbitry can help (I can help too)

**Silver Marten, New Zealands, Fuzzy lops - SilverStar Rabbitry

Mini Lops - Silver Birch Rabbitry

English Spots- Erins Rabbitry

Flemish Giants - TinysMom - unless someone with more experience with flemish wants to do it
** 
Anyone else have another breed they can help with? Mini-Lops? Flemish? Polish? There are still a lot more breeds left ... if you've ever worked on them (or are even able to research them).
 
*IF you want to work on breed - just post in this thread and I'll add your name to the list.

I'd like to get these done by the end of the month of June at the latest.

Ok...get ready to see the sample next...I think its awesome.


----------



## TinysMom (Jun 8, 2010)

Done by GoinBacktoCali

*Californian Rabbit Specifics*

The Californian Rabbit is a versatile, pleasing large breed of rabbit.The friendly, nonaggressive temperament of the Californian Rabbit makes this breed of rabbit an excellent house pet, especially to families with children.

Appearance: 
The Californian Rabbit reaches an adult weight of ten to twelve pounds, with the does on the higher end of the scale. The rabbit has a white body with the ears, tail, feet and nose a dark brown to black color, with black being preferred. The rabbit also has pink or red eyes, just like his New Zealand White ancestor. 

History: 
The Californian Rabbit was first shown in 1928 at a South Gate, California rabbit show. The Californian Rabbit began when, in 1923, George West cross bred a Himalayan rabbit to a Standard Chinchilla to produce a chinchilla colored buck. This buck was bred to several New Zealand White does, resulting in the rabbit we currently know as the Californian. 

Health: 
As with all large breed rabbits, the Californian will tend to get sore hocks if kept in a wire bottomed pen. Proper measures must be taken to avoid them. Aside from the occasional problem of sore hocks, Californian Rabbits are not generally bothered withhealth problems. 

Personality: 
The Californianâs personality ranges from a very social and loving animal to a very quiet and reserved one. He is generally mild mannered and even tempered. The body is sturdy, compact and healthy, making him an excellent choice for your house pet. 

4-H/FFA: 
For those interested in a 4-H or FFA Market Rabbit project, the trend in the south leans towards the popular Californian. However, the New Zealand White comes in a close second. The Californian reaches his market weight quickly, in just under 12 weeks time. He is easy to keep in show condition and his mild temperament makes him easy to handle, impressing fair judges. 

The Showroom weights for the Californian are as follows:

*Senior Bucks*-8 months of age and over, weight 8-10 lbs. Ideal weight 9 lbs.
*Senior Does*-8 months of age and over, weight 8 1/2-10 1/2 lbs. Ideal weight 9 1/2 lbs.
*Int Bucks*-under 8 months of age, not over 9 lbs.
*Int Does*-under 8 months of age, not over 9 1/2 lbs.
*Jr. Bucks*-under 6 months of age, not over 8 lbs. Min weight 5 1/2 lbs.
*Jr. Does*-under 6 months of age, not over 8 1/2 lbs. Min weight 5 1/2 lbs.
*Pre-Jr. Bucks & Does*- under 3 months of age, not over 5 1/2 lbs.


*Californian Rabbit Specialty Club

*Eunita Boatman
22162 So Hunter Rd., 
Colton, OR 97017-9710
(503) 824-2138 
*Email* [email protected] 
Californian Rabbit Specialty Club website



Californian Does












Californian Bunnies







Californian Buck










Newborn Californian Kits


----------



## iluvdutchrabbbits90 (Jun 8, 2010)

I can take posed pics of my chocolate dutch boy. he loves to pose lol


----------



## OakRidgeRabbits (Jun 8, 2010)

I just started summer work, so unfortunately probably won't have time to complete breeds by myself. But I'd love to help to contribute pictures or info to anyone working on the Holland Lop or Jersey Wooly breeds.

Can I make a few suggestions?

- I think I'd personally suggest titling each profile with "*Breed* Specifics", and insert *Breed* with the breed being worked on. Ex. "Californian Specifics". Californians are not recognized as the Californian Rabbit in the ARBA, and I think stating it as such could become confusing for newer members or breeders who may confuse the recognized name to be Californian Rabbit.

- I'd also suggest a "review panel", of sorts. Maybe as each breed profile is completed, it could be posted in this thread for a constructive critique. It may be that one breeder may mention something common to their herd that is not really valid on the whole, or someone may have an idea for better posed pictures, or pictures of a better representation of the breed, information to ad, etc. I know not everyone might have time to complete a whole breed profile, but many of us are knowledgable enough to help review them before they're posted.

- For the breeds where this is applicable, maybe list the ARBA-recognized colors. That seems to be a common question around here- what color and whether it's showable on a rabbit.

Hm...that's all for now. But if I think of anything else, I'll post again! Overall, this is a great idea and should be very helpful to those who are unfamiliar with all the different breeds!


----------



## TinysMom (Jun 8, 2010)

*OakRidgeRabbits wrote: *


> I just started summer work, so unfortunately probably won't have time to complete breeds by myself. But I'd love to help to contribute pictures or info to anyone working on the Holland Lop or Jersey Wooly breeds.
> 
> *I was hoping you could help - you have such an awesome website. *
> 
> ...


----------



## Tessie (Jun 8, 2010)

Great Idea


----------



## countrybuns (Jun 8, 2010)

Another thing I think might be helpful for each breed is that when you include pictures of common faults aswell for example showing "pinched hindquarters" as compared to what they should look like. I know in learning about Lionheads I often see terms for faults like being fine boned ect but there isn't often pictures to compare them to what would be the correct bone.


----------



## OakRidgeRabbits (Jun 8, 2010)

*TinysMom wrote: *


> *OakRidgeRabbits wrote: *
> 
> 
> > I just started summer work, so unfortunately probably won't have time to complete breeds by myself. But I'd love to help to contribute pictures or info to anyone working on the Holland Lop or Jersey Wooly breeds.
> ...


Thank you! And I'm sorry about that, I really would love to help but just won't be home very much this summer so I feel like it would be unfair to commit. I'd probably hold you all up!

If I get a free day and can work on it, I will. And I will definitely check back whenever possible to help out with what's been done too! I just figured they're two pretty popular breeds so they'd probably be snatched up and finished before I got around to it.


----------



## pamnock (Jun 8, 2010)

*OakRidgeRabbits wrote: *


> - I think I'd personally suggest titling each profile with "*Breed* Specifics", and insert *Breed* with the breed being worked on. Ex. "Californian Specifics". Californians are not recognized as the Californian Rabbit in the ARBA, and I think stating it as such could become confusing for newer members or breeders who may confuse the recognized name to be Californian Rabbit.



Or, put the "rabbit" in lower case.

For PA 4-H state days competition, I have to specify wording in the questions as "Californian rabbit" because the questions and tests also include cavies (just as the ARBA competition currently does, although there is talk of splitting them back into two separate competitions).

So - because ARBA also includes cavies, I think that the word "rabbit" should be included.


----------



## whaleyk98 (Jun 8, 2010)

*countrybuns wrote: *


> *Another thing I think might be helpful for each breed is that when you include pictures of common faults aswell for example showing "pinched hindquarters" as compared to what they should look like.* I know in learning about Lionheads I often see terms for faults like being fine boned ect but there isn't often pictures to compare them to what would be the correct bone.


Yes, this would be extremely helpful as well.


----------



## Pipp (Jun 8, 2010)

Thanks Peg! 

A few notes... I think/hope we're going to have a lot of people volunteering photos, but the format still has to be finalized. We will have a gameplan soon for what kind of posts should follow the main page, but right now we're at page one. 

We really need people to write up these descriptions and hopefully provide three good smallish pics representative of the breed for an instant visual ID. 

The perk for writing the page is a thank-you credit on the page and our heartfelt appreciation! (If the pics and the write-up are from different sources, both will get credit). 

Ultimately the decisions about which photos are included will be determined by a panel of staff (Task Force, Mods, Admins) and VIPs. Our Sponsors are promised involvement in panels like this (if they want to do so) as part of their 'perks'. 

There should be a number of breeders on the Task Force (ORR, we'd love you to join) helping to put the project together and of course we have Pam Nock's expertise. 

Generally speaking the strength of this forum is the accumlation of our members knowledge, so nothing is more important than pooling experiences, there will be opportunities. 

We would very much like to know what the breeders would like to see in the section, so keep the suggestions coming. (There is also a pending forum, 'Breeder Resources'). 

The 'Breeds' forum is part show, pet and medical. ie: The text includes also health, temperament. 

The next set of pages can probably run photos of different faults and even a set of overweight and underweight photos (to demonstrate how obesity presents itself differently in different breeds).

A simple breeders directory page is also a good bet. 

How or if we'll be showcasing different rabbitries still needs to be determined. 

sas :thanks:


----------



## BlueCamasRabbitry (Jun 8, 2010)

I will see what I can do for the Mini Rex, if anyone wants to help out as well.  I can submit a picture also. 

Emily


----------



## Shaded Night Rabbitry (Jun 8, 2010)

I could do ND's when I get home later tonight, perhaps.


----------



## MikeScone (Jun 8, 2010)

Perhaps when the library thread is set up the acceptable colors for that breed can be listed with example photos of as many different colors as the person setting up the thread has on hand. Then, others can contribute pictures for the colors which are listed without photos. 

I'd suggest standardizing on a fixed photo width of 450 pixels. On a standard camera, that would give a height of about 330-340 pixels on a digital camera using the computer aspect ratio (about 300 pixels with a DSLR). That should be big enough to show the rabbit clearly, but small enough to eliminate scrolling even on VGA screens, allow a fast load and reasonable number of examples on a page. This picture is 450 wide by 340 high:


----------



## Erins Rabbits (Jun 8, 2010)

I would HAPPILY cover Himalayans.


----------



## polly (Jun 8, 2010)

I did do the netherland dwarf but if it needs changed or updated then I don't mind doing it :0)


----------



## JadeIcing (Jun 8, 2010)

What I would also like to see mentioned and it would be a little harder is standards for ARBA and for the UK. Some breeds are different. Aren't Mini-Lop(UK) and Holland lop (US) the same? Also isn't the Britania Petit something else in the UK? Or is it another breed?


----------



## dixonsrabbitry1 (Jun 8, 2010)

This is really good idea, and I think this can be used as a good reference the breeders of the members section case use. Even those that want to breed their rabbits,but don't show. I don't know if i can do breed standards. I do have plenty of pictures of florida whites, standard chins, and I may have some of some thriantas.


----------



## dixonsrabbitry1 (Jun 8, 2010)

I like the UK suggestion too. There are different breeds of rabbits all over the world.


----------



## Starlight Rabbitry (Jun 8, 2010)

I could do the Dutch and would help Oak Ridge Rabbitry do Jersey Woolies. 

Erins Rabbits: If you need help with the Himis, let me know. My best friend raises them, you probably know her...lol

I can also get profiles and pics of a lot of the rare breeds, just let me know which ones. 

I know a lot of breeders who have almost every breed so if you have a list of questions you would like me to ask them about their breed, that would be helpful and they would not mind answering them.

Sharon


----------



## Pipp (Jun 8, 2010)

MikeScone wrote:


> Perhaps when the library thread is set up the acceptable colors for that breed can be listed with example photos of as many different colors as the person setting up the thread has on hand. Then, others can contribute pictures for the colors which are listed without photos.
> 
> I'd suggest standardizing on a fixed photo width of 450 pixels. On a standard camera, that would give a height of about 330-340 pixels on a digital camera using the computer aspect ratio (about 300 pixels with a DSLR). That should be big enough to show the rabbit clearly, but small enough to eliminate scrolling even on VGA screens, allow a fast load and reasonable number of examples on a page. This picture is 450 wide by 340 high:



Great idea!

If everybody submits photos of colors, the panel can choose which photos will go on the top of the page in a two or three-pic strip, big enough to show the breed at a glance but still make it easy to see that its an info page without scrolling.

We'll have photos involving colors, posing, faults and weight (and I'm suggesting standard shots of eight week old kits), I think they'll have plenty of opportunity to take a closer look, LOL! 

The whole thread will be pic heavy with all the colors repped, so it would be best to have all comfortably run two or three abreast at a glance. If its not a pain in the butt with the code, we can have them expandable, although they should be a decent size without it. They should probably include a caption with the name of the rabbit, or a 'courtesy of' credit. (ETA: I think I'd like to see this right on the photos in a consistent manner, might look cleaner).

The photos will also have to be stored in an RO Library and not with the person submitting, we really need to avoid future dead links.


sas :thanks:


----------



## la~la~land (Jun 8, 2010)

I could help some with mini rex :biggrin2:I sure there are other breeders who could outshine me on the knowledge front but I'm glad to help any way I can. Lol its not like I have anything better to do (I have come to realize that I have no life other than rabbits )

I've got pics of my broken black otter and BEWs. I also have several pics of a BEW litter growing up. There are also pics of my tort buck from the time he was 6wks to now (a little over a year) but hes strictly pet quality.

:coolness:

Kelly


----------



## TinysMom (Jun 9, 2010)

Bumping to show folks the updated list in the first message...


----------



## SilverBirchRabbitry (Jun 9, 2010)

I messaged you earlier.


----------



## Erins Rabbits (Jun 9, 2010)

Iam pretty sureI could do English Spots as well.


----------



## Silver Star Rabbitry (Jun 9, 2010)

I would be happy to do the Silver Martens. 
I also have "about the breed" articles on the New Zealand and Californian and am working on articles on the Netherland Dwarf and American Fuzzy Lop. I think that I also have lists of the recognized colors for a few different breeds. I have been working on a Rabbitry Directory website with information and pictures of the different ARBA recognize breeds, so I have been doing a lot of research.

Emily

Silver Star Rabbitry 
Raising and Showing Quality Silver Marten Rabbits in North Louisiana.

http://silverstarsilvermartens.webs.com/
http://silverstarrabbitry.blogspot.com/

[email protected]


----------



## TinysMom (Jun 14, 2010)

Bumped for update in red (I haven't been on the forum much lately to update the list - sorry).


----------



## TinysMom (Jun 14, 2010)

WOO HOO - From Erin's Rabbits...Himilayans

[line]
The Himalayan Rabbit is a fancy breed, raised and owned primarily for show purposes. Himalayans are friendly, laid back, and purely non-aggressive, while being active and playful all the same. These rabbits seek attention and are easily handled, making them popular as both a show and pet rabbit for adults and children alike. 

*Breed Slogan:* Majestic Beauty of the Ages

*Body type:* Cylindrical

*Fur Type:* Flyback

*Appearance:* Himalayans generally have white bodies and dark, or colored extremities. The color is located on the nose, ears, front legs, hocks, the tail, and in colder weather will ofter get âmascaraâ or âeyebrowsâ over/around their eyes, called eye-stain, and this comes in four different colors. The body on a Himalayan is long and snaky or tubular, even in a relaxed position. In an alert stance, they have a tendency to look like a full arch breed.

*Temperament:* Himalayans, or, âHimisâ, make excellent pets. These small, active rabbits are EXTREMELY friendly and laid back. Personality ranges from shy to extremely active and playful, and this depends on what kind of breeder you buy from, or how the rabbit was ultimately raised. More attention from birth-maturity tends to mean a bigger, more bold personality. Many of the bigger national breeders will have more reserved rabbits, as not as much time can be afforded to socializing. 

*History:* The Himalayan is certainly a breed with a rich history. Himalayans have been around since the 12[sup]th[/sup] century. Monks in monasteries in the Himalayas (hence the name) used to sit them on silk pillows and pray to them for hours at a time. This is what is generally attributed to the calm and docile nature of these rabbits. They were introduced in Europe around 1840 and were imported into the US during the Belgian Hare boom of the early 1900âs. This breed is a heritage breed if there ever was one. 

*Health:* Finer bone may cause some issues in some lines, but Himalayans are not known to be plagued by health issues and can be kept with little to no issues. 

*As a show animal:* Himalayans are an ideal show animal for seasoned veterans of the hobby as well as novices. First of all, the breed is unique. The cylindrical type is specific ONLY to Himalayan rabbits. This breed is considered a marked breed, but one can expect all babies in a litter to be show able. In most areas, there is ample competition, but not obsessive competition. Himalayan breeders tend to be just as casual as the animals they are showing, making for a fun environment at the tables and very little politics to involve yourself in. It is not impossible to win, and when you doâ¦ there are no hard feelings to be had. Despite the benefits, there is one setback. The variety âpointed whiteâ or âHimalayanâ is the only one that can and will grow a DQ at any time. Smut is a frustrating thing and will grow in thanks to contact with cold surfaces, colder weather, and the simplest of things including leaning against cage bars or a cold front during a rabbitâs molt. 

*As a 4-h animal:* Himalayans are very good for conformation or breed judging parts, but not as a showmanship animal. Use of Himalayans during showmanship requires special handling. Over-handling and scruffing the rabbit can result in permanent smut across the animalâs shoulders, making them an instant DQ every time. 

*Breeding:* Often breeders canât get a pair to mate successfully in a cage, so this is a breed that is often table-bred or put into a pen to breed. Once you get past this, however, the process is simple, assuming you know what you are doing. Himalayans are extremely prolific, having large litters, usually of 6-7. They are usually excellent mothers and take very good care of their kits as a general rule. 

*Recognized Colors:* Black, Blue, Chocolate, Lilac

*Showroom Weights:*

Sr. Bucks and Does: Over 6 mos. of age, 2 Â½ - 4 Â½ lbs, ideal weight 3 Â½ lbs

Jr. Bucks and Does: Under 6 mos. of age, minimum 1 Â¼ lbs. 

*Breed Specific Disqualifications:* Dewlap, toenails not matching on same or corresponding foot, smut on any usable portion of the pelt, white spots in any marking.

American Himalayan Rabbit Association website: http://himalayanrabbit.com/ 

American Himalayan Rabbit Association, 

Errean Kratochvil, Sec/Treas

7715 Callan Ct., New Port Richey, FL 34654

Phone: 727-847-1001 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting727-847-1001end_of_the_skype_highlighting; e-mail: [email protected]







Blue Himalayan Sr. Buck






Lilac Himalayan Sr. Doe






Litter of Himalayans (three blues and a black)


----------



## BlueCamasRabbitry (Jun 14, 2010)

I am finished with the Mini Rex one...not sure if there's anything La La would like to add once it gets up? It's on a Windows Vista program, so if anyone here has Windows Vista - Microsoft Works Word Processor, I can e-mail it to you so you can put it up. 

My computer doesn't allow me to copy & paste for some dang reason.  

Emily


----------



## Shaded Night Rabbitry (Jun 14, 2010)

I can, Em.

[email protected]


----------



## Karlie (Jun 15, 2010)

I could do the Palominos! I can't get any pictures until Saturday as my sister is gone and she has the camera. I will have all the info up by tonight or tommorow though!

If anybody needs help on English Spots I would also be glad to help. Also I have raised severel other breeds so just PM me and I will see if I can help!


----------



## Karlie (Jun 18, 2010)

Hi, Sorry this is late! I will have more pics posted probobly Saturday or Sunday and about the Breed specific faults/dqs ect.




WR's IE - Lynx Doe

The Palomino is a 6 class breed. A medium sized rabbit. They are very gentle, calm and laid back. Also very playful and inquisitive though. Their apperance staying that cute baby bunny look throughout most of their lives. They make wonderful pets for people of all ages. Although only people more experianced with handling rabbits should have this rabbit as a lap pet.

Breed Slogan:[/b] Be a pal to the Pals

Body Type:[/b] Commercial

Fur Type:[/b] Flyback

Appearance:[/b] A very stocky type rabbit. They are very cute in appearance and keep they're babyish looks throughout most of their lives. The bucks have a very wide, massive head and the does more slender noses.

Health:[/b] Generally an overall healthy rabbit. Like most heavy beeds though, they are prone to sore hocks. So a mat or board of some sort in their cage is encouraged. 

Breeding:[/b] A prolific breed, averageing from 6-9 kits in a litter. Usually a very good mother, produce a lot of milk and males are normally agressive breeders.

Recognized Varietys:[/b] Gold- Lynx

Note:[/b] Sometimes an Albino kit (White, red eyes) will pop up in litters. These are not showable but do just as great as pets.

Showroom Weights:Sr. Bucks -[/b] 8-10lbs 9 ideal Sr. Does -[/b] 9-11lbs 10 idealIntr. Bucks -[/b] Not over 9lbs Intr. Does[/b] - Not over 9 1/2lbsJr. Bucks -[/b] Not over 8lbs Min of 4 Jr. Does -[/b] Not over 8 1/2 lbs Min of 4Pre-Junior - Bucks & Does -[/b] Not over 5 pounds



For the full page of this (More orginized too) see my website, www.onthebrightsiderabbitry.webs.com (on the About the Breeds Page) Also, there is a profile for the English Spot on there.


----------



## Silver Star Rabbitry (Jun 20, 2010)

The first Silver Martens were developed in the 1920's. Standard Chinchilla breeders had introduced Tan bloodlines into the breed in the hopes of improving color and pattern. This resulted in the tan pattern genes being carried on in the offspring. The Chinchilla genes affected the tan coloring causing it to turn silver. Some of the black and silver colored kits were saved and line bred. These uniquely colored rabbits were named Silver Martens in 1924 and the standards were written for the blacks and chocolates in 1927. The blues were accepted in 1929 and the sables were accepted in 1933. The first Silver Marten breed club was formed in 1927.

With their flashy appearance and calm, easy going and sometimes playful temperaments, Silver Martens are popular both as a show and pet breed. 
Silver Martens are considered a medium sized rabbit and have fly back fur. They have an average weight of 6 to 9 pounds with 7 Â½ pounds being the most common. 
Silver Marten does make excellent mothers and foster mothers, but as with any other breed this can sometime very depending on the lines that you get them from.

BlackÂ is the most popular variety. They should be jet black with the color going as far down the hair shaft as possible. There should be a sharp contrast between the black coloringÂ and the silver markings. Their eyesÂ should beÂ dark brown.

Blue is the second most popular variety. They should be an even dark slate blue. Their eyes should be blue-gray. 

Chocolate is the third most common variety. Their color is rich dark chocolate. Their coloring is described as looking like dark semisweet chocolate rather than milk chocolate. Their eyesÂ should beÂ brown. 

Sable Silver Martens are the least common variety and can almost appear to be a different breed entirely. They should be a medium sepia brown on the saddle with shading going down their sides blending into a lighter color. Their ears, face, tail, outside of the feet and lower legs should be a very dark sepia brown, nearly black, providing a distinct contrast to the body color. Correctly colored sables will be a silvery color at birth. Their eyesÂ should beÂ brown.

The silvering on a Silver Marten should appear encircling their nostrils and eyes, on the back of their ears, on their belly and as a triangle on the back on their neck between their ears. There should also be silver ticking on their feet and coming up their sides. 
It is not uncommon to have a solid colored kit crop up in a Silver Marten litter.

For show purposes the Silver Marten should have a short neck with wide shoulders and well developed hind quarters. When in a show pose, they should look almost like a half of a basketball.


----------



## OakRidgeRabbits (Jun 27, 2010)

Here's a start to the Holland Lop article:

The Holland Lop rabbit is the smallest of the lop-eared breeds recognized by the American Rabbit Breeder's Association. Holland Lops weigh in at about 2-4 lbs., and their small weight combined with their curious, playful personality makes them one of the most popular breeds for both show and companion pets.

*Breed Slogan:* The Hallmark Breed

*Body type:* Compact

*Fur Type:* Rollback

*Appearance:* Holland Lops are known for their massive look in a small package. The signature look of a Holland Lop is a large, wide head and short lopped ears. Holland Lops are a compact breed and are posed sitting up straight with their front feet resting lightly on the table. Hollands are recognized in many color groups, including agouti, broken, pointed, self, shaded, tan pattern, ticked, and wideband.

*Temperament:* Holland Lops have a very curious and friendly personality. They are often "on the go", exploring their surroundings. But they always hop back for some attention from their favorite person! Hollands have a very showy personality as well and most enjoy sitting up pretty for the judges, which makes them one of the most popular and competitive breeds currently recognized by the ARBA. But their sweet personality and curious nature make them a great companion pet breed as well.

*History:* The Holland Lop originated from a Netherland Dwarf x French Lop experiment conducted by Adrian de Cock of Tillburg, Holland. This line of breedings created a dwarf-sized lop-eared rabbit which was eventually recognized in its earliest form by the Netherland's Governing Rabbit Council in early 1964. A little over a decade later, in 1979, Holland Lops were recognized in the United States by the ARBA. 

*Health:* Holland Lops are generally very healthy rabbits. There are no known health complications specific to this breed.

*As a show animal:* Holland Lops have a lot to offer as a show animal, though the competition is fierce! It is recommended that new breeders start their Holland herd by saving up and purchasing the absolute best stock they can afford. Perfecting the Holland takes years of dedication and many breeders become discouraged in their earlier years with the breed and may not continue. But for those who stick it out, the rewards are endless. There is a lot of pride in producing a consistent, winning show Holland!

*As a 4-h animal:* Holland Lops make an excellent 4-H animal because of their small size (great for younger, smaller exhibitors) and docile nature.

*Breeding:* Breeding can be challenging with Holland Lops. It is not uncommon for them to "miss" and not concieve a litter after being bred. And even when they do deliver a healthy litter, there is a chance of peanuts (kits who recieve a fatal double-dwarfing gene) since Hollands carry the dwarfing gene, or "normals" which do not recieve the dwarfing gene and will go over show weight as seniors.

*Recognized Colors:* Lots- any particular way you want this organized?

*Showroom Weights:*

Sr. Bucks and Does: Over 6 mos. of age, 2-4 lbs, ideal weight 3 lbs

Jr. Bucks and Does: Under 6 mos. of age, minimum 2 lbs. 

*Breed Specific Disqualifications:* Nothing breed-specific that I know of...


----------



## Pipp (Jul 3, 2010)

Yay! 

:bump:

btw, not sure where mini-rexes are sitting, but here's a great site for color info... 

http://mr-colors.tripod.com/


:thanks:


----------



## pamnock (Jul 13, 2010)

It's been a busy summer, but I have not forgotten that I promised to do some breed profiles. Son Matthew will be off to camp next week, so I hope to get done next week: Dwarf Hotots, Rhinelanders, Belgian Hares, and Checkered Giants.


----------



## Erins Rabbits (Jul 13, 2010)

Oh darn, I'd forgotten about the English Spots, as well! I can finish it up after I'm done with the 100 other things I'm supposed to be writing for people... 

Julie, the only breed without breed specific DQs are Florida whites. xD


----------



## leo9lionheads (Jul 14, 2010)

I could do it for Lionheads if you would like....


----------



## pamnock (Jul 14, 2010)

*Erins Rabbits wrote: *


> Julie, the only breed without breed specific DQs are Florida whites. xD


Holland Lops have some color DQ's listed, but they are also listed as general DQ's for all breeds (so there is nothing "technically" breed specific in the Holland standard). But you are correct - the only breed standard not listing any DQ's is the Florida White. (of course, all general DQ's apply)


----------



## TinysMom (Jul 14, 2010)

*leo9lionheads wrote: *


> I could do it for Lionheads if you would like....


You're welcome to do it if you want - I have it about 75% done and have been trying to find time to go through information from when I started breeding lionheads 5 years ago to get a more complete history of the breed.

If you want to take over though - go for it.


----------



## OakRidgeRabbits (Jul 14, 2010)

*pamnock wrote: *


> *Erins Rabbits wrote: *
> 
> 
> > Julie, the only breed without breed specific DQs are Florida whites. xD
> ...


I'm glad I'm not going crazy, the only DQs I could think of were color and general DQ's!


----------



## BlueCamasRabbitry (Jul 14, 2010)

I have the Mini Rex one finished. I will send it to Megan (ShadedNight) because my computer doesn't allow copy & paste for some silly annoying reason, haha. 


ETA: Still in need of some more MR pictures, though.  I can put one up, but does anyone else have lovely pictures they'd like to share?  



Emily


----------



## leo9lionheads (Jul 14, 2010)

As long as you don't mind I will start on it right away.


----------



## mistyjr (Jul 14, 2010)

I would like to help with anything?? :hyper:


----------



## TinysMom (Jul 14, 2010)

*leo9lionheads wrote: *


> As long as you don't mind I will start on it right away.


Well - I really had wanted to do it since I bred lionheads for a while - but go ahead and do it and I'll just work on the flemish giants.

I should've done it already - and in fact - I had worked on it but because I'd been pretty close with one of the COD holders I'd hoped to add in some extra information about the history - I just haven't had a chance to go through my old emails from 4-5 years ago and make sure my information is correct.

Don't forget to add on the newest COD that was approved by ARBA in late June or early July!


----------



## CoolWaterRabbitry (Jul 14, 2010)

I could work on the Havanas.


----------



## TinysMom (Jul 14, 2010)

*RabbitOwner1986 wrote: *


> I could work on the Havanas.


Go for it - all that I ask is that you follow the sample we gave for formatting, etc.


----------



## TinysMom (Jul 14, 2010)

*Silver Star Rabbitry wrote: *


> The first Silver Martens were developed in the 1920's. Standard Chinchilla breeders had introduced Tan bloodlines into the breed in the hopes of improving color and pattern. This resulted in the tan pattern genes being carried on in the offspring. The Chinchilla genes affected the tan coloring causing it to turn silver. Some of the black and silver colored kits were saved and line bred. These uniquely colored rabbits were named Silver Martens in 1924 and the standards were written for the blacks and chocolates in 1927. The blues were accepted in 1929 and the sables were accepted in 1933. The first Silver Marten breed club was formed in 1927.
> 
> With their flashy appearance and calm, easy going and sometimes playful temperaments, Silver Martens are popular both as a show and pet breed.
> Silver Martens are considered a medium sized rabbit and have fly back fur. They have an average weight of 6 to 9 pounds with 7 Â½ pounds being the most common.
> ...


*Does anyone have the time to take this and edit it to fit our format and add any additional information that the format looks for that might be missing?

I don't have the time right now....even adding the national club information would be a help.


*


----------



## TinysMom (Jul 14, 2010)

*mistyjr wrote: *


> I would like to help with anything?? :hyper:


I want to do this but I told Art I'd be to bed about 10 minutes ago (I was falling asleep driving today)...so I have to wait on it.

Could you start another thread here called: 

BREED LIBRARY PROJECT: FINAL ARTICLE SUBMISSIONS

and then copy and paste over all of the various articles - with each one having its own message (don't put them all in one message basically).

That would be a help because then we could start editing to make sure they all have the same type of information, etc.


----------



## mistyjr (Jul 15, 2010)

Sorry Peg! I didnt understand this. I have asked 2 people and they dont either. I am sorry.


----------



## TinysMom (Jul 15, 2010)

Please post future article submissions in this thread:

http://www.rabbitsonline.net/view_topic.php?id=59422&forum_id=8&jump_to=798311#p798311


----------



## TinysMom (Jul 15, 2010)

To help out leo9lionheads - here is what I had so far (I recovered it from my hard drive and added the newest COD information) - feel free to edit it as you want and then submit it in the other thread I've created.

[line]


*Breed Slogan:* 

*Body type:* Short, Compact & well-rounded with broad shoulders & hindquarters

*Fur Type:* Rollback on the coat and the mane is to be wool

*Appearance: *Lionheads should be posed with their front feet resting lightly on the table. They should naturally have an upright stance that shows their full chest and mane.

*Temperament:* 

*History:* 

*Health:* At one time several years ago, there were reports of some seizures in lionheads. Since then, many other genetic lines have been bred into the lionheads and it is not commonly heard of for lionheads to have seizures. Gail Gibbons (prior COD holder) was tracking this a few years ago.

*As a show animal:* At this point in time (2010), lionheads are still in the process of being recognized. If they pass presentation during the ARBA National Convention this fall, then shows will be REQUIRED to allow the colors that passed to show as "exhibition" animals which will be unable to receive awards like Best In Show, etc. 

Many clubs will allow all of the colors to show that are on any of the 8 COD holders' standards. Others will only allow the colors that passed at ARBA to show. Because of this, it is important to contact show secretaries in advance to see what they are allowing at their show.

Until the lionheads pass a presentation - clubs are not required to allow them to show at all.

*As a 4-h animal:* 

*Breeding:* Because many lines have had dwarfs crossed into them, it is possible to get "peanuts" in a litter. Does can have as little as one or two babies or as many as 10 and raise them to adulthood. The average seems to be four to six babies.

*Recognized Colors:* Lionheads are grouped by individual color when they are shown.

I am listing colors by the COD holders in line to present lionheads:

Current COD holder followed by those in line after her:

*Theresa Mueller* - Black, Blue, Black Tort & REW
*Dawn Guth* - Black, Siamese Sable, REW, Pointed White & Smoke Pearl
*Lynn Schultz* - Blue Point, Chestnut Agouti, Orange & Red (on a separate COD)
*Lee A. Nevills* - Chocolate, Chocolate Tortoise, Lilac, Opal & Seal
*Regina Mayhugh*- Black Otter, Blue Otter, Chocolate Otter, Lilac Otter, Sable Marten
*Anita Moore* - Black, Chestnut Agouti, Chocolate Agouti, Chinchilla, Squirrel
*Kim Croak* - Silver Marten group (all 4 shades), Otter group (all 4 shades), Chestnut Agouti, Lilac Tort & BEW
*Marilyn Stevens* - Blue, Blue Tort & Sable Point

*SPECIAL NOTE: *Once someone gets the breed passed by passing three presentations, all COD Holders in line behind them become "color COD" holders and their COD will drop down to 2 colors each. So while at this time lionheads have 26 colors on CODs (per the lionhead club website) - that will drop dramatically once the breed passes.

*Showroom Weights:*

Sr. Bucks and Does: Over 6 mos. of age - 3 lbs. 12 ozs. maximum weight

Jr. Bucks and Does: Under 6 mos. of age - minimum 1 lb 10 ozs, may weigh up to 3 lbs 8 oz. May be bumped up to Senior category if above this weight limit

*Breed Specific Disqualifications:* Ears exceeding 3 1/2", Lack of mane, wool in the saddle area

*Schedule of points: *General Type - 40, Fur - 45, Color - 10, Condition - 5
 
*Club: *An official club will become recognized once the breed is recognized but the current club is:

North American Lionhead Rabbit Club (NALRC)
www.lionhead.us
$10 annual membership for single youth
$15 annual membership for single adult
$20 annual membership for 2 or more persons at one address


----------



## ~*Midnight Moon*~ (Jul 16, 2010)

I a not exactly sure if this is still active or not, But I can helpcover Silver Martens andFlemish Giants. And I can do Harlequins and Rhinelanders on my own. Since these are all the breeds I raise..
I raise Mini Lops as well, but they str just a side breed. Means I'm not UTD on them, unless we need people to do them.


----------



## pamnock (Jul 21, 2010)

Dwarf Hotot Rabbit - The Eyes of the Fancy

The Dwarf Hotot is a dwarf breed of rabbit that is characterized by its pure white coat and dramatic eyebands of chocolate or black, giving the rabbit the appearance of having large, expressive eyes.

*History:*[/b] The Dwarf Hotot originated in Germany with breeders in East and West Germany developing different strains using Netherland Dwarfs and Blanc de Hotots. The Dwarf Hotot was officially recognized as an official breed by the ARBA in 1984.

*Health:* [/b]Dwarf Hotots can be a challenge to breed as they carry genes such as the dwarfing gene (lethal in 25% of the kits) and some lines may also carry the Max Factor gene which causes limb deformities. The Dwarf Hotots also have a predisposition to intestinal problems due to the genes that produce their color. 

*Personality:* [/b]Dwarf Hotots are an energetic and inquisitive breed.

*Showing/Breeding:* [/b]Dwarf Hotots can be a challenge to breed, but are a breed that is very much in demand easy to sell. The mismarks are popular as pets. Their disposition has improved tremendously in recent years due to selective breeding.

*Showroom weights:* [/b]

Sr. Bucks & Does: maximum 3 pounds (ideal 2 Â½)[/b]
Junior Bucks & Does: maximum 2 Â½ pounds, minimum 1 Â¼ pounds.

*Coat Type:* roll back

*Body Type:* compact


*Breed Disqualifications:* [/b]Dewlap, Ears over 2 Â¾â, colored toenails, incomplete or heavily feathered eyebands, eye spots or marbling, wrong eye color.

American Dwarf Hotot Rabbit Club http://www.adhrc.com/


----------



## pamnock (Jul 21, 2010)

*~*Midnight Moon*~ wrote: *


> I a not exactly sure if this is still active or not, But I can helpcover Silver Martens andFlemish Giants. And I can do Harlequins and Rhinelanders on my own. Since these are all the breeds I raise..
> I raise Mini Lops as well, but they str just a side breed. Means I'm not UTD on them, unless we need people to do them.



The Rhinelanders would be great, I had said I'd do them, but I'm short on time.

Thank you!


----------



## pamnock (Jul 21, 2010)

*The Belgian Hare Rabbit â The King of the Fancy*


The Belgian Hare is large, regal, fine boned breed that resembles a wild hare. In the US, only the standard red coat with black ticking is showable. However, in other countries a number of other varieties are popular.

*History:*[/b] The Belgian Hare is one the United States original heritage breeds and has a rich history in our country since reaching our shores in 1888 from England and having originated from Flanders, Belgium. Although rather rare today, the Belgian Hare remained one of the most popular breeds in our country through the early 1900âs.
[/b]
*Health:* [/b]The Belgian Hare can be prone to sore hocks, joint infections, and neurological tremors.

*Personality:*[/b] The Belgian Hare can be an affectionate, but rather energetic breed.

*Showing/Breeding:* [/b]Rare on the show table, a Belgian Hare posing up and showing off its full arch type is quite a site to behold. Breeders in the US occasionally find non-showable reds in their litters. The Belgian Hares have a reputation for being difficult to breed, but are able to raise large litters. They should not be raised on wire floored cages due to their fine bone and predisposition to develop sore hocks. A limited gene pool makes breeding healthy, vigorous specimens a challenge.

*Showroom weights: *
[/b]
Sr. Bucks and Does: 6-9 Â½ pounds. Ideal weight 8 pounds.[/b]
Jr. Bucks and Does: minimum weight 3 lbs.[/b]

[/b]*Coat Type:* flyback[/b]

[/b]*Body Type:* full arch[/b]
[/b]
[/b]*Breed Disqualifications:* [/b]Complete lack of ticking, eye color other than brown.


----------



## pamnock (Jul 21, 2010)

The Checkered Giant Rabbit â The Beautiful Rabbit

The Checkered Giant is an aggressive imposing presence at shows as it stomps and runs the length of the table â assuring all eyes are drawn its way.

*History:*[/b] The Checkered Giant originated in France and Germany and was primarily derived from the Flemish Giant as well as French Lops and spotted rabbits. The first Checkered Giants were imported to the United States in 1910

[/b]*Health:* [/b]A generally hardy breed.

*Personality:*[/b] Aggressive â known to bite.

*Showing/Breeding:* [/b]Correct markings are a must, and mismarks as well as solid sports are common when breeding Checkered Giants.

*Showroom weights: *
[/b]
Sr. Bucks and Does: minimum weight 11 lbs.[/b]
Intermediate Bucks and Does: minimum weight 9 lbs.[/b]
Jr. Bucks and Does: minimum weight 6 lbs.[/b]

[/b]*Coat Type:* flyback[/b]

[/b]*Body Type:* full arch[/b]
[/b]
*Colors:* black and blue[/b]
[/b]
[/b]*Breed Disqualifications:* [/b]Ears less than 5 3/4 â, colored toenails, any 3 colors, any marking connection, loin marking forward of body midpoint, more than 1 stray spot forward of body midpoint, missing loin or hip marking, more than one break in spine or any break more than Â¼ inch, split butterfly, white spot(s) in butterfly, strip of white on upper lip, double cheek spot, absence of cheek spot, more than one stray spot on head, markings on front legs.


----------



## pamnock (Jul 21, 2010)

*TinysMom wrote: *


> Please post future article submissions in this thread:
> 
> http://www.rabbitsonline.net/view_topic.php?id=59422&forum_id=8&jump_to=798311#p798311



Just realized I posted mine in the wrong place. Maybe someone can move them to where they are supposed to go for editing.



Thanks!


----------



## leo9lionheads (Jul 21, 2010)

*TinysMom wrote: *


> To help out leo9lionheads - here is what I had so far (I recovered it from my hard drive and added the newest COD information) - feel free to edit it as you want and then submit it in the other thread I've created.
> 
> [line]
> 
> ...


Here: I added and tweaked some things:

*Breed Slogan:* â*The Pride of the Fancyâ*

*Body type:* Short, Compact & well-rounded with broad shoulders & hindquarters

*Fur Type:* Rollback on the coat and the mane is to be wool

*Appearance: *Lionheads should be posed with their front feet resting lightly on the table. They should naturally have an upright stance that shows their full chest and mane.

*Temperament:* In general they are a laid back, docile breed but specimins that have recieved little to no handling can be high strung but are easily tamed down with regular handling.

*History:* [sub]There are many speculations of where and how the Lionheads originated from but it is known they are the first mutation since the 1930âs with the satins and originate from the European continent. They where first imported by Jo Ann Statler into Minnesota in 2000 and have since then spread through the whole US. Bob Whitman a very knowledgeable rabbit history buff spent years researching the history of Lionheads and wrote an article with what he be leaves is the true history of the Lionhead and is the most theory supported by Lionhead Breeders . Due to his death in 2009 his article has been lost online but can be found in the NALRC Guidebook and parts of it found on the NALRC website along with the history of Lionheads in America.[/sub] 


*Health:* At one time several years ago, there were reports of some seizures in lionheads. Since then, many other genetic lines have been bred into the lionheads and it is not commonly heard of for lionheads to have seizures. Gail Gibbons (prior COD holder) was tracking this a few years ago. Since then there have been little to no health complications in Lionheads besides them being susceptible to wool block like other wool breeds.

*As a show animal:* At this point in time (2010), lionheads are still in the process of being recognized. If Theresa Mueller (current COD holder) passes the 1[sup]st[/sup] attempt at 1[sup]st[/sup] presentation during the ARBA National Convention this fall, then shows will be REQUIRED to allow the colors that passed to show as "exhibition" animals which will be unable to receive awards like Best In Show, etc. 

Many clubs will allow all of the colors to show that are on any of the 8 CODâs. Others will only allow the colors that passed at ARBA to show. Because of this, it is important to contact show secretaries in advance to see what they are allowing at their show.

Until the Lionheads pass a presentation - clubs are not required to allow them to show at all.
Also, if you are going to show your Lionhead please remember to bring the current working standard found here: http://www.pridelandsrabbitry.com/MuellerStandardAllColors26.htm so judges will hav something to judge them by.

*As a 4-h animal:* If and how you are allowed to show Lionheads varies throughout the country. Some places have a breed section for them and allow them to compete for Best In Show and others will only allow them to show in mix breeds for your first year in 4-H. If you do want to show your Lionhead at fair prior to signup contact whoever is in charge for the rabbit portion of your fair and find out if and how your allowed to show your Lionhead. 
*Breeding:* They are relatively easy to breed and make excellent mothers but because many lines have had dwarfs crossed into them, it is possible to get "peanuts" in a litter. Does can have as little as one or two babies or as many as ten and raise them with no problem. The average is three to five kits per litter.

*Recognized Colors:* Lionheads are grouped by individual color when they are shown.

I am listing colors by the COD holders in line to present lionheads:

Current COD holder followed by those in line after her:

*Theresa Mueller* - Black, Blue, Black Tort & REW
*Dawn Guth* - Black, Siamese Sable, REW, Pointed White & Smoke Pearl
*Lynn Schultz* - Blue Point, Chestnut Agouti, Orange & Red (on a separate COD)
*Lee A. Nevills* - Chocolate, Chocolate Tortoise, Lilac, Opal & Seal
*Regina Mayhugh*- Black Otter, Blue Otter, Chocolate Otter, Lilac Otter, Sable Marten
*Anita Moore* - Black, Chestnut Agouti, Chocolate Agouti, Chinchilla, Squirrel
*Kim Croak* - Silver Marten group (all 4 shades), Otter group (all 4 shades), Chestnut Agouti, Lilac Tort & BEW
*Marilyn Stevens* - Blue, Blue Tort & Sable Point

*SPECIAL NOTE: *Once someone gets the breed passed by passing three presentations, all COD Holders in line behind them become "color COD" holders and their COD will drop down to 2 colors each. So while at this time Lionheads have 26 colors on CODs (per the lionhead club website) - that will drop dramatically once the breed passes.

*Showroom Weights:*

Sr. Bucks and Does: Over 6 mos. of age - 3 lbs. 12 ozs. maximum weight

Jr. Bucks and Does: Under 6 mos. of age - minimum 1 lb 10 ozs, may weigh up to 3 lbs 8 oz. May be bumped up to Senior category if above this weight limit

*Breed Specific Disqualifications:* Ears exceeding 3 1/2", Lack of mane, wool in the saddle area, lack of break between mane and flank wool.

*Schedule of points: *General Type - 40, Fur â 45 (35 mane, 10 coat), Color - 10, Condition - 5

*Club: *An official club will become recognized once the breed is recognized but the current club is:

North American Lionhead Rabbit Club (NALRC)
http://www.lionhead.us
$10 annual membership for single youth
$15 annual membership for single adult
$20 annual membership for 2 or more persons at one address


----------



## leo9lionheads (Jul 21, 2010)

Realised posted it in the wrong place, sorry! but would you like some pictures also?


----------

