# Cage for first ever rabbit! Tips, suggestions?



## Cati (Apr 27, 2022)

Hello!

I am hoping to get my first rabbit in a few weeks, and I am in the process of building and setting up a cage. Here's what I have so far:




I'm looking for advice, criticism, etc. so I can hopefully improve and fix things before the rabbit comes home! 

First, the cage size. It's 6 ft wide, 4 ft deep, and 4 ft tall with roof. Made it using a dog pen, cube squares, zip ties, and binder clips. The floor is foam tiles covered with a whelping blanket for puppies, with cardboard on top. (I'd like to get rid of the cardboard once the bunny is litter-trained, don't know if that is feasible). Are there any "gotchas" I need to know about with this sort of enclosure? Anything I should watch out for to prevent escapes? The rabbit I am expecting to get will likely be medium/large sized as an adult.

Second, the table is 29" high. Is this a dangerous height, or will a bunny be okay with that?

For a litterbox, I want to try out the Tidy Cats Breeze box with some hay (didn't get any yet) so I put that in there -- I will replace with something normal if it doesn't work out. When litter-training, should the hay exclusive go in the litterbox and hay bag, or should I put some elsewhere?

I didn't buy food dishes yet, but it's on the list. My plan is one for food, one for vegetables, a gravity waterer, and a hay bag that I want to hang over the litterbox. If the table is safe I'd like to put the food/maybe the litterbox on the second level, but I assume I should wait until the bunny is bigger for that since I'm not sure how well a young rabbit can manage steps.

I realize I do also need to get toys and other things for enrichment, but I'm not sure what to get. Anyone have any suggestions? Also, how much space should be left open for running around and not taken up by objects?

Last thing -- I have cats, and I could use some thoughts on the cat situation. Although I do plan on letting the bunny out in the rest of the room when the cats are not around, I would ultimately (not immediately) like to be able to let the cats in the same room as the rabbit unsupervised while the rabbit is in the cage. Is that safe?

Thanks everyone for any feedback you can provide. I do want to try to get this right!


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## Blue eyes (Apr 27, 2022)

Let's see... overall you have a good start! Since you've already started using zip-ties, I'd suggest using some to secure a mid-level in the cage (midway between the floor and table) but on the right side of the cage. That would make half this new level under the right side of the table and half of it connected to the front of the cage. This arrangement would make the entire floor of the cage useable and also add a 2' by 4' extra level. The steps then don't need to be used at all. That would be better because they just take up space unnecessarily. Bunny can hop to the mid-level and lounge there, or hop up to the table. 

Both the table and the mid-level shelf should be covered. If that table has that vinyl that my similar table has, then bunny nails will cut right through it and then likely get chewed. You could clamp some fleece to the top.

I have that Tidy Breeze box for my cat. It will not work for rabbits. Hay has no odor absorption whatsoever. The grid that is made to allow urine to pass (with pad in tray underneath) will also do nothing for urine odor. Rabbit urine odor is baaadd!! You need an absorbent litter like wood pellets to soak up that urine. Those wood pellets won't work on that green tray. They'll just clog up the slots. The Breeze pellets won't work for the rabbit poos because they can't be scooped out like big ol' cat poos. 
A plastic storage container from Wal-mart will do much better. Hay can (and should) be placed on top of wood pellets. Check here for photos of a good setup:








Litter Training


[ Tablet users, try the "web" version by clicking on "web" at the bottom of this page for a better, user-friendly format . ]



rabbitsindoors.weebly.com





I'll break this up into a couple posts...


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## Blue eyes (Apr 27, 2022)

Regarding the carboard, litter training and putting hay anywhere else during training... all of that rather depends on whether you're getting a rabbit from a rescue. For a first rabbit it is very, very strongly advised to avoid getting a baby rabbit. I know most people think getting a baby rabbit is the perfect choice and ideal and adorable. It is not. Many times here on RO have people come on asking this very question and were advised against getting a baby. Those that ignored that advice almost inevitably regretted that months later. Here is more on that. 

By getting a rabbit from a rabbit rescue (different than generic shelter), you get to see the personality of the rabbit you are getting. If you were hoping for a certain temperament, that's the only way to find out. A baby's personality seldom represents their adult personality. And, no, a rabbit won't bond with you any better and like to be held if you get it as a baby. 
Also, rescue rabbits are already fixed (saving you hundreds of dollars in spay costs). Since they're fixed, they are often already litter trained as well (saving you lots of frustration). 

With a rescue rabbit, you can probably skip the cardboard. Just put hay in the litter box. Keep the litter box on the lowest level. And you won't need to worry about dangers of upper levels (as you might with a baby). [The wider openings of the dog crate portion of the cage are also a danger for a baby rabbit.]

Food dishes can be put wherever you like.  If you do a search on this site for toys, you'll find lots of ideas for DIY toys you can make with cardboard, branches, TP tubes, etc.


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## Cati (Apr 27, 2022)

Thank you so much for the advice!

For the mid level shelf, I really, _really_ like the idea, just not sure how to make one with limited tools -- main reason why I went with the table and steps since I don't have anything for woodworking. I could make a mid-level with some of my extra wire squares and cover them up, but what I can use so it doesn't droop in the middle? If I slide some pieces of wood or something below the squares, would that support it?

I double-checked the table --it's solid plastic, no vinyl. Does it still need to be covered?

Thanks for letting me know about the litterbox, awesome to hear from someone with experience with it. I'll get a plastic container ready instead.

I'll look at your resource on baby versus rescue rabbits and see what else I can find, thanks for pointing that out. I haven't been able to find any rabbit rescues in my area, unfortunately -- not even the local humane society has rabbits -- but lots of breeders and a couple rehoming ads I can consider. :/ I think/hope I'm prepared for dealing with a baby rabbit if that's the only thing I can find (first time rabbit owner, but I've worked with feral cats and horses so I fully expect shenanigans). If I get a baby, I was leaning toward getting a male since I could get him fixed earlier -- that is true, right?

Thanks again.


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## Blue eyes (Apr 27, 2022)

You're welcome! Yes! You can put a piece of wood across to support. I'll look for a couple photos that may show this. Once I had a metal shelf bracket thing lying around and made use of that to support a level. 

If the table top is plastic, it's a good idea to cover it so it isn't too slippery. 

If you let us know what state you are in, we can probably find a rescue. There are more around than people realize and many are surprised to find out. 

This is an old cage of mine with that metal bracket supporting the lower shelf. The shelf is just the grids with scrap carpet on top.



This is off another site but shows the 1 x1s used for support.


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## JBun (Apr 27, 2022)

You should be able to use a 1x2 slid into the grid square spaces to support a shelf made from the grids. A dowel or any type of strong rod zip tied to the grids, will work for floor supports as well. Then foam tiles cut to size, can be put on the grid to be the floor for the shelf. This is how I did my rabbits home base cage. Another option is to have a piece of plywood cut to size for your shelf instead of using grids. Then cover the plywood with stick on textured vinyl tiles. 

This was mine. I used1x2's as floor supports, the floors were wire grids covered with a piece of cardboard then foam tiles over that. Though there is a bit more to mine, as I screwed boards together for stronger support and to have a floor border around the floor edges.


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## Cati (Apr 27, 2022)

Awesome pictures! I have an idea of what I can do now. I need to get some more supplies, but I think I know how to get a mid-level shelf in there.


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## JBun (Apr 27, 2022)

Here's a few more ideas.









Housing


Housing tips, information, DIY, and links for rabbits.




wabbitwiki.com


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## Diane R (Apr 28, 2022)

Indoor Housing


Minimum Size Let’s just start with a reminder of our space guidelines: A single enclosed area of at least 3m x 2m by 1m high. This can include the sleeping quarters, and makes up a footprint (acces…



rabbitwelfare.co.uk


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## DJJMM (Apr 28, 2022)

I have not read all the responses, so please forgive me if this has been addressed. You set up looks super. Lucky bunny. I would rethink the waterer though. Rabbits typically drink better from bowls. And more water is always better. I have a heavy crock bowl that is actually for a small dog and my monster cannot tip it over. I would stay away from plastic bowls, but if you can't get a heavy crock, one that you can somehow attach is a good idea.
I used a grated litter box, mine was from Busy Bunny and I use Okocat litter. It works REALLY well to control odor and is easy to pull out the clumps. I used the less fine version. It is not dusty and it works great. I put it under the grate and then cover the grate with hay and put that next to his hanging hay feeder. Rabbits love to eat sitting in litter boxes for some weird reason.
I have two cats, one is 15 lbs and huge. He watches Dash, and will bat at him with no claws thru the pen bars, but most of the time really enjoys sitting in the sun hanging next to him while Dash is in his pen. I don't let Dash loose in the house because he does not do much except sit under chairs and the table, but when I do, the cats give him a wide berth. They have sniffed him a few times, but they really are not interested in him. He is only 5.5 lbs, but that is big enough that it does not trigger their prey drive. If you get a baby, definitely don't let the cats anywhere near him until he is grown enough not to look like prey. Maybe feeding the cats near his pen might help them acclimate to him.


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## Blue eyes (Apr 28, 2022)

Do not use any clumping cat litter. If the rabbit gets to it and ingests any, it can kill him. The poster above puts a grate over their litter, but if the rabbit is able to get to it, that is a potentially dangerous situation. 

As mentioned already, a very popular (and incredibly cheap) litter, is the wood pellet litter. These are not wood_ shavings_, but compressed wood pellets. When wet, they break down (they don't clump). A 40 lb bag typically costs around $7. These may be sold at hardware stores for use in wood pellet stoves or at feed stores for horse stall bedding.


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## Cati (Apr 28, 2022)

Thanks all! I'll post an update with my progress probably Saturday. I made my initial attempt at making a shelf and it's going pretty well, but it's not complete yet.

I bought a grated litterbox that looks like a pretty good size, and I will look for some wood pellet litter. I also bought the bowls -- as suggested, I will try a regular water bowl over a gravity waterer and see how that works.


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## DJJMM (Apr 29, 2022)

I respectfully disagree about the clumping litter. I have used it for years. I keep enough hay and different types of cuts available ALL the time, and tons of wood, and other chew toys, so I can't imagine a rabbit ingesting clumps of litter that they peed on. And mine is covered by a grate and hay on top of that. The litter I am talking about is wood, not clay or whatever else they make litter from. It works AMAZINGLY. I have no urine smell, is easy to clean out and I can throw it on our manure pile to decompose because it is, well, wood. I did try the pellets and they were definitely not as good as the Okocat. There is non clumping Okocat, but I don't prefer it. 
I did use the wood pellet litter for a bit, but IMO it was not as effective as the Okocat.


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## PeanutsPlace (Apr 29, 2022)

The dust from clumping litter is also terrible for bunnies PLEASE don’t use it for your bunnies. Rabbits have very sensitive respiratory systems and digestive systems. My bunnies have accidentally ingested many things. It’s not a risk worth taking. I would almost compare it to having lead paints on your walls, maybe not harmful initially but can cause many problems in the long run. Please re consider. If you worry about odor you can get your pet fixed and use yesterdays news which tends to be very odor absorbing


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## Blue eyes (Apr 29, 2022)

Cati said:


> I bought a grated litterbox that looks like a pretty good size, and I will look for some wood pellet litter. I also bought the bowls -- as suggested, I will try a regular water bowl over a gravity waterer and see how that works.



When starting with a litter box, I would begin without the grate on it. The grates are only needed for those occasional buns that want to dig it all out. It'll be easier to just have the pellets with hay on top. Do you have the dimensions of the box?


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## Cati (Apr 29, 2022)

Blue eyes said:


> When starting with a litter box, I would begin without the grate on it. The grates are only needed for those occasional buns that want to dig it all out. It'll be easier to just have the pellets with hay on top. Do you have the dimensions of the box?



I do! It's 22 inches by 18 inches, 3 inches tall. The grate is removable. Didn't arrive yet though, so no pictures.

And eeeeeeh, I could use more advice on the mid-level. Good news: it's sturdy. Bad news -- not really sure what to do with the over-layment?

Here's what it looks like:





Because of the table legs I couldn't do the full 4ft by 2ft (had to leave gaps), but the shelf seems sturdy. I'm use the cube squares zip-tied together some wood to support it, and binder clips part of the way on one side (shown in first picture) in case I need to get in and out there. I cut some foam squares to size and put on top. I used some painter's tape to cover some of the harsher edges, but is painter's tape safe? I can remove it.

On top is a whelping blanket cut to size and not fastened to anything, but as you can see, it sticks up and doesn't look great. Any suggestions there? Did I use anything dangerous to bunnies that I should undo?

And question about the zip-ties. I have been clipping them short, but they keep leaving rough edges. Any tips to fix that?


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## Emmi (Apr 29, 2022)

Use a file to file down rough edges. Also make sure to have plenty of enrichment toys. The bun may be intrested in chewing the cardboard. If you need toy ideas or anything else let us know. We are here to help!


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## Cati (Apr 29, 2022)

Back to the store to get a file then, LOL. Thanks!

I'd love some toy ideas. Here's what I have ordered so far:

A grass house: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HMYQ1JP
A foraging mat: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0967YKRKN (If my bun is not already litter-trained, I may delay putting this in because it is *very* soft and probably tempting as a "litterbox").
Grass mat with assorted toys: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B096XZWPPP
Some hanging chew toys: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B099KFKH39


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## DJJMM (Apr 29, 2022)

A plant-based litter that’s a clean and healthy option for your family, both furry and not-so-furry.
The biodegradable wood fiber is sustainably sourced, responsibly rescued and works to naturally prevent enzymes from bonding with liquid and waste, halting ammonia odor before it even starts.
Absorbs liquid on contact and creates solid clumps for hassle-free scooping. And it’s flushable—simply scoop and flush one clump at a time!
99% dust-free so you and your feline can breathe easier. The wood fiber is de-dusted and screened.
100% free from artificial fragrances, synthetic chemicals, toxic dyes and GMOs.
Just because I don't want anyone to think I would endanger my rabbit with a product I use, the above information is directly from the Okocat product description.


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## JBun (Apr 29, 2022)

DJJMM said:


> I respectfully disagree about the clumping litter. I have used it for years. I keep enough hay and different types of cuts available ALL the time, and tons of wood, and other chew toys, so I can't imagine a rabbit ingesting clumps of litter that they peed on. And mine is covered by a grate and hay on top of that. The litter I am talking about is wood, not clay or whatever else they make litter from. It works AMAZINGLY. I have no urine smell, is easy to clean out and I can throw it on our manure pile to decompose because it is, well, wood. I did try the pellets and they were definitely not as good as the Okocat. There is non clumping Okocat, but I don't prefer it.
> I did use the wood pellet litter for a bit, but IMO it was not as effective as the Okocat.



That's good that you haven't ever had it cause health issues with your rabbit. Keeping it covered with a grate and hay seems to have helped mitigate some of the risks of it's use. But any members or other rabbit owners reading this thread, need to be made aware of those risks, as there are most certainly risks with any clumping litters use when it comes to rabbits, even plant based dust free clumping litter.

There have been members here and other rabbit owners elsewhere, that used clumping litter and it ended up causing a gastric obstruction in their rabbits, and in some cases it proved fatal to the rabbit. I remember one member a while back, had his rabbit in his work shop, and he would come on here sharing stories about life with his rabbit. His rabbit later passed away, which he learned was due to a gastric obstruction caused by the clumping cat litter he had been using in the rabbits litter box.

The problem isn't to do with the type of litter, whether clay or plant based, but has to do with the litters moisture absorption and clumping action. It's not just ingesting clumped peed on litter that's a problem, but ingesting any of the litter, especially the unclumped litter that hasn't yet absorbed moisture, whether purposely eating it or inadvertently when grooming(eg. grooming litter stuck to the feet), that poses the risk.

The litter when ingested, will absorb and 'soak' up fluids in the digestive tract, drying out the food and contents passing through the digestive system, which can slow the rabbits digestion to the point of causing GI stasis, which can then lead to an obstruction. It's for these reasons that any type of clumping litters use is warned against when it comes to rabbits. Because it is a known safety hazard, due to the reported GI stasis episodes and rabbit deaths that have occurred from it's use.

It's an individual choice, whether you or any others decide to use clumping litter, despite the possible risks. But here on RO, as moderators, we cannot let known high risk suggestions on rabbit care be posted, without voicing a warning about the opinion or suggestion being given, or in some cases posts will be deleted when highly dangerous advice or information is given. You offered suggestions based on your experience, and a warning of it's danger was given based on our knowledge and experience. So let's call the discussion finished with no further debate on the matter.


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## Cati (Apr 29, 2022)

Another question:

I have some weekend travel plans later this year and my parents agreed to watch and care for my rabbit while I am gone, but they would prefer to not come to my house because they are allergic to my cats. I am trying to find a cage that might be okay for a medium-large rabbit to stay in for a weekend.

At the moment, here's my biggest contender:


https://smile.amazon.com/MidWest-Homes-Pets-158-Wabbitat/dp/B01E0RWM9U/



I was thinking about getting the smaller 39.5" length one because it would fit nicely in my car, but buy the 18.5" expansions to make a cage that's approximately 6ft by 2ft by 2ft. I realize that's probably not optimal, but would it be acceptable for a rabbit to stay in for a weekend?


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## bigtab (Apr 30, 2022)

My cat quickly became friends with my bunnies


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## Cati (Apr 30, 2022)

Sigh, I was setting up the new toys in the cage, left the door open, and this happened:




Cats aside, here's the cage as it is now:




Still pending: hay, litter, food, water, since it will be a few weeks before I get a rabbit.

Also going to put puppy pads on top of the cardboard.

Anything I am missing?


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## Tercar88 (May 1, 2022)

Rabbits will eat pee pads. Plastic in their tummy not good! They should pee in their litter box after you determine where they want it.


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## Cati (May 1, 2022)

Oooh, good to know! Do these have plastic? GREEN LIFESTYLE Reusable Dog Pee Pads, 30 x 34, 6 count - Chewy.com It mentioned rabbits so I though it might be safe.


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## PeanutsPlace (May 2, 2022)

Any pee pads that are ingested are not safe for rabbits, thats why I only use it in the litterbox, and it helps that my bunnies are intrested in chewing them. Instead of peepads to protect your floor id suggest puzzel mats or laminet flooring. (the kind that has texture on it) Then you can wipe anything up quite easily .


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## Emmi (May 2, 2022)

I see your in the United States. Chewy has some great rabbit toys as well as Amazon. If ordering from Petco or petsmart just be sure that they are safe as all toys and things they sell are not rabbit friendly. You mentioned a snuffle mat. What is it made out of?


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## JBun (May 2, 2022)

Cati said:


> Oooh, good to know! Do these have plastic? GREEN LIFESTYLE Reusable Dog Pee Pads, 30 x 34, 6 count - Chewy.com It mentioned rabbits so I though it might be safe.



It's the disposable pee pads that would be the problem if a rabbit chewed them. Not all rabbits will. I've had to use the disposable pee pads for old incontinent rabbits, and since they didn't chew at them, it worked out ok for me to use them. But some rabbits will just chew and shred them up, risking them possibly ingesting the contents, which would pose a risk of digestive obstruction if they did.

Reusable ones can be fine unless a rabbit was a really determined chewer and tried chewing these ones up as well. But the main problem with using pee pads or any soft surface, is many rabbits like to pee on soft surfaces, even if they are litter trained. So using anything soft on the flooring could create litter training issues. If that happens with your rabbit, then you would need to stick with smoother flooring surfaces, though with some texture and padding preferred if at all possible. For my rabbits I could use the foam puzzle mats as my rabbits didn't really chew them. For my rabbit group, anything soft they would pee on, but my pair didn't pee on things so they also got a soft rug on top of the foam mat.

What works best for each rabbit will be different. It will be trial and error. I have piles of things that I tried and they didn't work, so then I had to try something else. So try the flooring that you have and you'll soon learn if it's working or if you need to change things.









Housing Options


[ Tablet users, try the "web" version by clicking on "web" at the bottom of this page for a better, user-friendly format . ]



rabbitsindoors.weebly.com













What is the best floor for my bunny enclosure?


We look at the pros and cons of flooring to help you choose the best for your bunny.




bunnyproof.com


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## Cati (May 2, 2022)

Emmi said:


> You mentioned a snuffle mat. What is it made out of?



Looks like fleece!


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## PeanutsPlace (May 2, 2022)

Cati said:


> Looks like fleece!


I just re read your post, and misunderstood it! I saw this lovely reusable pee pad on toki hut!
Toki Hut Pee Pad
It’s 5.5 by 3.8 so It should
fit the area well!


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## Emmi (May 3, 2022)

Cati said:


> Looks like fleece!


I would not use fleece for a snuffle mat for rabbits as ingesting it can be harmful to them. Here’s a better option I get mine off chewy .


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## Blue eyes (May 3, 2022)

Cati said:


> I do! It's 22 inches by 18 inches, 3 inches tall. The grate is removable. Didn't arrive yet though, so no pictures.
> 
> And eeeeeeh, I could use more advice on the mid-level. Good news: it's sturdy. Bad news -- not really sure what to do with the over-layment?
> Because of the table legs I couldn't do the full 4ft by 2ft (had to leave gaps), but the shelf seems sturdy. I'm use the cube squares zip-tied together some wood to support it, and binder clips part of the way on one side (shown in first picture) in case I need to get in and out there. I cut some foam squares to size and put on top. I used some painter's tape to cover some of the harsher edges, but is painter's tape safe? I can remove it.
> ...



I would remove the blue painter's tape. It would likely just get chewed. It looks like a great set up for the cats!! 
However, I'm a little leery of the loose fabric (blanket) on the top of the upper levels. Rabbits tend to chew the edges of things like that. It would be the rare rabbit that wouldn't nibble on the edges. It would have been better to wrap it around the edge and tuck it under. Once tucked it could be held in place with binder clips. If you don't have more of that blanket, fleece fabric could also be used in the same way.

For the bottom level, I don't see a need to spend all that money on washable pads. Pads, blankets, or anything cloth-like only make litter training more difficult. It should be something solid not soft. It would be less expensive, nicer looking and easier to clean if you purchase a single piece of rolled linoleum or vinyl flooring from a hardware store. You can see a sample of this on the lowest level of my NIC cage (photo I posted near the beginning of this thread). Feel the samples of the vinyl flooring at the store to find one with the most texture or grit so it isn't slippery. Skip the cardboard. {lowes and home depot sell sheet vinyl for as little as 60 cents per sq foot}

For the sharp zip tie edges, be sure to have the sharp edges facing the safest direction-- typically the outside of the cage.

If that's your new litter box, I'd still say to try it without the grate. The grate is just something else that will need to be cleaned. Far easier to just remove it altogether. Use the wood pellets topped with hay and you're good to go.

I was going to suggest one possible option to cover where that blue painters tape is, but it won't be needed if you wrap the edge with whatever cloth you put on those shelves.


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## Cati (May 3, 2022)

I do have more of that fabric, I will see how much I have and give it a shot.

I will look into the linoleum! Dumb question, but is it difficult to get it to flatten out?

That is indeed the litterbox. I will try it without the grate once I fill it.

I’d still be interested in hearing the option if it turns out I don’t have the fabric I need — what are you thinking?


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## Cati (May 4, 2022)

This isn't what I had planned, but is this an improvement?

If the bottom floor covering turns out to be a pee-attractant I will replace it with vinyl, but I figured it was worth trying the way it is for now -- unless there's something else wrong?


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## PeanutsPlace (May 4, 2022)

Does the vinyl have traction? or else I worry about the bunny slipping off


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## Cati (May 4, 2022)

Hmm, it's not perfectly smooth, but it is also not the roughest vinyl I've seen. How would I know if it is good enough?


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## PeanutsPlace (May 4, 2022)

trial and error is the best option to me as it seems. So just see how the bunny does with it!


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## Blue eyes (May 5, 2022)

Cati said:


> This isn't what I had planned, but is this an improvement?
> 
> If the bottom floor covering turns out to be a pee-attractant I will replace it with vinyl, but I figured it was worth trying the way it is for now -- unless there's something else wrong?



I believe my post may have been mis-read. I had suggested the fabric covering (either more of blanket or fleece) for the _upper levels_ -- with the fabric wrapped around the edges. The rolled vinyl was suggested for the _bottom/floor level_. 

Fabric has grip, so it is better suited for the upper levels. That is where bunny needs grip while hopping up and down. That isn't so critical on the floor level. Having vinyl on the upper levels may prove to be too slick for bunny. If you want to try it out, maybe bun will go up there and be ok. Depends on the bun. However, the edges must be addressed or bun will chew the edges. When the vinyl is used on the floor, the cage sits on top of the edges which prevents bunny from getting to those edges. 

If you want to keep the vinyl on the upper levels, you can get corner guard to cover any edges. 

I see something dark black under the litter box. Can't tell what that is. Is it on top of the blanket there?


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## Cati (May 5, 2022)

Oh, not your bad, I completely understood what you were saying! I didn't have enough material to wrap the edges and I was having trouble finding a way to secure the wrapped edges, so I thought I would try vinyl on the shelves. I'll pick up a corner guard for it and at least try the vinyl for now. If is too slick, I can get more fabric and put on the shelves and figure out how to wrap it.

The fabric covering on the bottom was already there (under the cardboard) and I just didn't remove it to put vinyl down there. Totally open to switching it, but I didn't want to go vinyl crazy until I got feedback on what I already did. It's not a soft blanket, more like a very thin carpeted mat.

The dark black is the underside of the fabric, yes, I have it folded. Now that I think of it, I assume I should probably either fold it under instead of over, or alternatively, cut it to prevent chewing?


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## Blue eyes (May 5, 2022)

Yes, I'd at least fold it under if you don't want to cut it.


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## JBun (May 6, 2022)

There are foam tiles under the vinyl flooring right? If your rabbit ends up not being much of a chewer, you may be able to just use the foam tiles without having anything on top of it. That's what I used for my rabbits flooring, as they didn't really mess with it. I had the wire shelf, a piece of cardboard on top of that for support of the flooring above, then foam tiles on top of the cardboard. Some rabbits will leave the foam flooring alone but will try and chew the edges and seams. So for mine I used mat tape to tape the seams, and J trim to protect the edges. It slips right onto the edge of the foam tiles.

J trim is used for covering sheetrock edges. There is metal and vinyl trim available, in 1/2 or 5/8 inch. If you need a thinner J trim just for the vinyl flooring, there's something called FRP cap molding, that has about an 1/8 inch gap, even though the description says 1/4 inch. The metal J trim, fit pretty snuggly over the foam tile edge, but I did secure it further using the clear mat tape. Or silicone caulk could be used to secure the edging and keep it from slipping off. Pine 1x2, 1x3, 1x4 boards can also be used for covering edges along the enclosure walls.

J trim for sheetrock

FRP cap molding


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## Cati (May 10, 2022)

Anyone know how well this works on vinyl and if it is safe for rabbits?






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To be clear, still no rabbit yet, so I have time to spray it and air out the room before the rabbit arrives.


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## Blue eyes (May 12, 2022)

Cati said:


> Anyone know how well this works on vinyl and if it is safe for rabbits?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Interesting idea. It appears to be able to be sprayed on vinyl. How well it works (or lasts) may be a matter of testing it out. I would not think it would be a problem for the rabbit if he isn't chewing on it (and it's had time to air out). Wonder if anyone here on RO has ever tried it.


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## Cati (May 12, 2022)

I ended up using the Krylon spray, and although I of course can't speak to the long-term wear of it yet, I am very pleased with the results. It is completely clear, but it added a rough (not painful) finish that will definitely provide more traction on the shelves.

I also got bored and decided to go forth and put vinyl on the bottom floor. This vinyl has more of a texture on it, so I didn't spray any Krylon.

I also found a cute hay feeder at the pet store and added that as well -- I left the hay bag, but the feeder looks more convenient to fill.


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## Blue eyes (May 12, 2022)

Looking good...

Did you find something to go over the edges of the shelves to keep bun from chewing the vinyl? (can't quite tell in photo.)


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## Cati (May 12, 2022)

I did! I’m using the clear plastic corner protectors on the exposed edges. They are the sticky kind, so I might reattach them with glue or caulking if they start to come off.


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## Cati (May 14, 2022)

So, latest update, bunny is arriving on Wednesday. He is a eight-week old 3/4 Flemish 1/4 Satin cross. I think the cage is ready, so I want to talk about some of my other plans.

The room the bunny is in was originally "the cat's room" (a misnomer because the cats own the whole house). The loft bed in the room is not for people, it is 100% for the cats. Although I am not going to try this any time soon, my eventual hope is that I can switch off who has access to the room -- let the bunny when the cats are not in there, but other times put the bunny in the cage and let the cats in if they so desire. All this depends on how the cats and the bun adjust to each other, but if this is altogether a terrible idea, let me know.

But since I would like the bunny to have unsupervised access to the room eventually, I could use some tips/advice on how the room is set-up right now. The bedroom is 8 ft by 11 ft to the best I can measure, not including the closet space (which is open)




I have zero concerns about protecting the floor in this room from the bun, unless it is in someway unsafe. I ripped out the carpet a few months ago and the floor underneath is ugly and damaged. When I move out in a few years I plan on covering it up with laminate.

I put cord protectors on the air purifier and lamp for now, but I am considering getting a light to put on the shelf (top right corner), and removing the lamp for more room. Also fine with removing the air purifier. I'd prefer the exercise bike to stay.




There's some baseboards in this room, haven't figured out/decided how to protect them yet.




Storage area for bunny stuff. I also need to do something to prevent the bunny from chewing the frayed carpet edges at the door left from my sad attempt at removing the carpet, so I'm going to look into what transition strips are available.




This is the closet area. I'd prefer to leave the cat tree (it's for the cats, not the bunny) but is it unsafe? I may also remove the shelves in this closet because I hate how they are set up, but it might not be for awhile.

Also wanted to add, I bought a cage in case I have to take the bun over to my parents' for bunny sitting (as I mentioned in an earlier post, they are allergic to my cats, so I don't think they would be able to come over). I'm wondering what to do with it. Here's the cage:




As-is it's about 40 inches by 24 inches, but I have two expansions to it that I have not added yet that will extend the length to around six feet. I'm wondering what to do with it. I feel I should eventually put it in the room so the bunny will be familiar with it, but the only option right now is to put it where the lamp and air purifier are, and I'd hate to take up that space. I guess the other option is to remove the shelves in the closet and put the cage in there. Thoughts?


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## Blue eyes (May 15, 2022)

It'd be easier if you were getting a rabbit that's already fixed (like from a rabbit rescue). Babies present a number of difficulties. First, I'd be careful about the dog crate portion of your cage. The openings are larger than the grid panels and a young bunny could potentially get their head trapped in there. Second hormonal rabbits are more likely to do excessive destructive chewing. Only one of my rabbits chewed on baseboards, but a baby that gets in the habit (from hormones) may never stop.

On that note, I agree that it would be wise to cover that carpet peeking out from the door. The carpet on the cat tree may get chewed as well. Ingested carpet can cause a gut blockage pretty quickly so keep a close eye.

I wouldn't worry about the rabbit getting used to the travel cage. You can always take mats or toys from the cage he uses and put them in the temporary cage to make it familiar (when the time comes). 

There are tips for what to do the day you bring your bunny home here:








Bringing Your Rabbit Home


[ Tablet users, try the "web" version by clicking on "web" at the bottom of this page for a better, user-friendly format . ]



rabbitsindoors.weebly.com





If you find you need to protect the baseboard, one option is to use pin nails to attach some lengths of 1x4 or 1x3 (depending on the height of your baseboards) pine boards to the existing baseboards. This shows what I did.


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## Cati (May 16, 2022)

I understand a baby will be a lot harder, but I still want to try, I feel pretty attached and he's coming from a meat farm. I'm trying to find out his current size to get a better idea of the chances of his head fitting through. I have some extra C&C grids I can put up if it looks like a risk.

Good call on the cat tree, I will keep an eye on that. If it has to go, it has to go.

Thanks for the bringing home link, I think I have everything on that list covered.


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