# feed store rabbit food: not healthy??



## blondiesmommie (Sep 23, 2012)

I've been buying my rabbits food in bulk at the feed store bc its SO cheap. I fill a pitcher-like storage container, that I keep handy near their cage, and the rest i put away in a large storage container tub, to keep it from going bad or stale, or anything getting to it. Im wondering if maybe bc it is so cheap, that naybe its not the best rabbit pellets??


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## Imbrium (Sep 23, 2012)

what's the health info on it? the best brands I know of are sherwood forest (https://www.naturalrabbitfood.com/sherwood-forest-natural-rabbit-food/ ) and oxbow essentials. both brands have 14% protein and 24-29%/25-29% fiber. cheap brands often have 16%+ protein and no more than 20% fiber, plus sometimes they have stuff other than just pellets in them (and the little extra/colorful bits are bad for rabbits)

btw, if you want to keep extra pellets fresh even longer, you can refrigerate (not freeze) them


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## jamesedwardwaller (Sep 23, 2012)

blondiesmommie wrote:


> I've been buying my rabbits food in bulk at the feed store bc its SO cheap. I fill a pitcher-like storage container, that I keep handy near their cage, and the rest i put away in a large storage container tub, to keep it from going bad or stale, or anything getting to it. Im wondering if maybe bc it is so cheap, that naybe its not the best rabbit pellets??


i offer/feed purina rabbit chow-(complete)-,one could compare to a cheaper brand but i figure it is not cost effective--exotic dvm,s are very expensive--and pellets are to be fed as a daily treat--the main diet is high fiber-ie.timothy/orchard grasses--sincerely james waller


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## LakeCondo (Sep 23, 2012)

How long you can keep pellets ok depends on your humidity levels.

Sherwood Forest pellets have a bit more calcium & fat than other pellets, so be careful about feeding them to rabbits with sludge or weight problems.


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## majorv (Sep 23, 2012)

*Imbrium wrote: *


> what's the health info on it? the best brands I know of are sherwood forest (https://www.naturalrabbitfood.com/sherwood-forest-natural-rabbit-food/ ) and oxbow essentials. both brands have 14% protein and 24-29%/25-29% fiber. cheap brands often have 16%+ protein and no more than 20% fiber, plus sometimes they have stuff other than just pellets in them (and the little extra/colorful bits are bad for rabbits)
> 
> btw, if you want to keep extra pellets fresh even longer, you can refrigerate (not freeze) them


"Cheap"is a relative term. There is nothing wrong with a feed that is 16%+ protein. Most pet rabbits don't need that much protein, but some may, like the more active breeds. Feed store rabbit feed is sold in 50# bags and usually purchased by those with more than a few rabbits, like breeders and 4-H/FFA kids for their projects. It's not fair to say that the feed they sell is cheap(if you're referring to quality), but in bulk it IS cheaper in price. It serves a purpose, and doesn't necessarily suit a pet rabbit owner's needs.


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## ldoerr (Sep 23, 2012)

I have always fed my rabbits food from feed stores. I normally get Purina Rabbit Chow Professional. I never had a problem with it. I am currently feeding my 2 rabbits Mana Pro brand Pro formula. I notice nothing bad with regard to the rabbits health. 

Most breeders buy their food from feed stores. That is were the majority of rabbits in this country get their food from.


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## littl3red (Sep 23, 2012)

I was thinking about buying my next bag of rabbit pellets from the feed store, for the same reason; it's cheap, and I REALLY need to save my money to get ready to move out. I'll have to look at the nutrition information.


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## LakeCondo (Sep 23, 2012)

According to Rabbit Nutrition ..., excess protein can affect the liver & kidneys. Lactating does should have 18-21%; long-haired & larger breeds, 17-20%; 14% for pregnant does; only 12-13% for bunnies up to 9 weeks, & 12-16% for all others. Because of the large differences for lactating does & their babies, the little ones should be kept from eating mom's food. "Failure to do so may result in a high mortality rate among the rabbit kits."


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## ldoerr (Sep 23, 2012)

I raised many litters on a 16% protein diet. I never bought different foods for different rabbits. They all got the same thing and were all always good.


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## majorv (Sep 23, 2012)

We, too,have raised a lot of kits on 16%protein feed, with no problems. Our Tans are a very active breed and do better on higher protein feed.I'm certainly not saying that 16% protein is right for all rabbits, but you shouldn't read something out ofa book,believing it to be always true.


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## Blue eyes (Sep 23, 2012)

The House Rabbit Society has this to say about protein:

Since pellets are manufactured and marketed primarily for breeders, and since most breeder rabbits are subject to more stress than house rabbits, many brands of pellets are labeled as "performance" feeds. These brands contain a high level of protein (16-22%), which is probably necessary to keep alive a rabbit who lives in an environment without climate control, is bred as often as possible, or is nursing most of the time. Physical, environmental, and psychological stresses require high energy levels for survival. 
A healthier protein percentage for spayed or neutered house rabbits is approximately 12-14%, a level at which it is possible to find pellet brands that contain no animal fat and list at least some actual ingredients on their labels. 

I find this interesting because it explains that breeders may prefer the higher protein levels and for good reason, while fixed buns generally are better with lower levels.


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## ldoerr (Sep 24, 2012)

I know many breeders who keep their rabbits in air conditioned and heated barns. Each doe MIGHT have 1 or 2 litters a year. You really can not rely on what you find from a sight that hates breeders. You need to get both sides of the story. Most breeders have WAY more experience with rabbits than ANY of those people who write that stuff. I think that the breeders that they are refering to is the commercial meat producers. Those people do not buy feed by the bag. Rather they buy it by the ton and have it deliver in massive vats. Those are the only breeders that I have EVER herd of that breed there rabbits as often as they are refering to in that article. Most rabbits are not nursing very much at all. Most breeders are in rabbits for the enjoyment of the rabbits. They LOVE their rabbits. They are not in it for the $$. We breeders want the best for our rabbits. That is why we feed the best. Our rabbits are always at the peak of health and often times our rabbits live over 10 years.


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## Blue eyes (Sep 24, 2012)

Even if a doe is having 1 or 2 litters per year, her nutritional requirements will be more vigorous than a spayed doe. It seems to me that the House Rabbit Society's recommendations make sense (and they are written by a vet and backed up by research). I certainly know what a stress pregnancy is on any species.:big wink:


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## majorv (Sep 24, 2012)

I don't have a problem with the gist of the message, but I do have a problem with the way the House Rabbit Society words things and the insinuation that breeders are basically rabbit mills. I hope they'rereferring tocommercial breeders, but they certainlydon't say that. Most hobby breeders don't keep their does bred and nursing all the time...needing high protein feedjust to survive...geez!! Comments like that cast a bad light on all breeders.:X For that reason, I take most of what they say with a grain of salt.


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## Blue eyes (Sep 25, 2012)

*majorv wrote: *


> I don't have a problem with the gist of the message, but I do have a problem with the way the House Rabbit Society words things and the insinuation that breeders are basically rabbit mills. I hope they'rereferring tocommercial breeders, but they certainlydon't say that. Most hobby breeders don't keep their does bred and nursing all the time...needing high protein feedjust to survive...geez!! Comments like that cast a bad light on all breeders.:X For that reason, I take most of what they say with a grain of salt.


I can see how HRS' wording could be seen as offensive to those who breed 'mildly.' HRS could have said "many" rather than "most," or outright said "commercial breeders." 

They also could've simply stated that even in ideal conditions, pregnancy is physically stressful. That could've just as well made their point without bringing up the extreme. I think they were swinging the pendulum to make a point. Unfortunately, doing so can sometimes be detrimental to the point they were trying to make.


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## blondiesmommie (Sep 25, 2012)

OK SO WHAT KIND SHOULD I BE FEEDING MY RABBITS!!!!????????


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## majorv (Sep 25, 2012)

As some of the others have said, you don't really need anything that's 16% or more in protein. Based on the picture in your avatar, you have a Dutch and...not sure of the other one, but Dutch are not an active breed.


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## JBun (Sep 25, 2012)

It's really up to you. Some people prefer to feed the lower protein timothy pellets because they feel it's better for their rabbits and it has less calcium in it than alfalfa based pellets, and some people like the sherwood forest feed because it doesn't have added grains and sugars in it. Some people get the larger feed store bags and feed it because it works well for them. It just depends on your situation and preference, and your rabbits. If your rabbits have excess calcium in their urine then you definitely should go with timothy pellets, or the sherwood forest is supposed to be ok too. I think the important thing with rabbits is making sure they get enough fiber to keep their digestion moving. They need lots of good grass hay (except supposedly with the sherwood forest feed, they say theirs is a complete feed). I personally lean towards the sherwood forest feed because I hate all the added grains and sugars put in all the other feeds, including the timothy ones. I've dealt with too many stasis and digestive problems to want to keep using feed with sugar in it. But alot of rabbits do just fine on those other feeds. Just do some research and make your best choice from there. People will give you their opinion based on their knowledge, experience and what they've decided they like best, but it doesn't mean their choice is perfect, including mine. I've made my choice based upon my personal experience with my rabbits. Just do the same and make the best choice you can for you and your rabbits.


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## Blue eyes (Sep 25, 2012)

:yeahthat:


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## Imbrium (Sep 25, 2012)

*JBun wrote: *


> They need lots of good grass hay (except supposedly with the sherwood forest feed, they say theirs is a complete feed).


they can say that all they want, lol, I feed sherwood food and my bunnies still get tons of hay. IMO every pellet maker wants to have a "complete" feed because that means the rabbit eats more pellets and you buy more pellets from them... but I can't imagine not giving my munchkins hay (and limiting their pellets).


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## blondiesmommie (Sep 25, 2012)

majorv wrote:


> As some of the others have said, you don't really need anything that's 16% or more in protein.Â  Based on the picture in your avatar, you have a Dutch and...not sure of the other one, but Dutch are not an active breed.



Ummm my dutch is very active!!!!!


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## majorv (Sep 25, 2012)

*blondiesmommie wrote: *


> majorv wrote:
> 
> 
> > As some of the others have said, you don't really need anything that's 16% or more in protein. Based on the picture in your avatar, you have a Dutch and...not sure of the other one, but Dutch are not an active breed.
> ...



LOL, I'm sure yours is...I just meant that the breeddoesn't have a high metabolism.

Companies like Purina, Acco, Manna Pro, ADM Alliance all have research depts and vets on staff. Theywouldn't be in business if buyers weren't happy with they'reproducts, because they didn'tmeet a rabbit's (orother animal's) nutritional needs. JBun said it well...do what works for you and your bunnies...what you and they are happy with.


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## mochajoe (Jan 1, 2013)

The bottom line is what many who have commented before me have said, you need to do what works for you and your bunny! The most important part of a bunny's diet is and needs to be hay...pellets of ANY kind are secondary! I don't know ANY wild bunnies who eat pellets! From my experience, it is better to feed a so called "cheap" pelleted grain from a feedstore than a mixed feed (like sold in pet stores) as most bunnies will pick out what the like and leave what they don't...thus not getting as balanced diet as they should. Just remember lots of hay...green leafy vegies and pellets (whatever works for you) and your bunny will do just fine!


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